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Craig yr Aderyn

Mid-Wales

Craig yr Aderyn sits in the Dysynni valley, around 7 miles inland. Unsurprisingly, given that the translation of the name is 'Bird Rock', there is a nesting restriction here. An unique crag in that it once used to be a sea cliff and now has the largest colony on nesting cormortants on an inland cliff in the UK!  Peregrines,  Choughs and Ravens also nest here - conveniently all on the same buttress! 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 45
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1959
Grid Reference: SH646067

A roadside trad climbing venue with some quite adventurous routes, but its convenient roadside location makes a very useful venue for mid-Wales climbers. The crag is divided into three distinct buttresses - Eastern Face, Central Buttress and the Bastion.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The Eastern Face only is restricted due to nesting choughs, peregrines and cormorants. The crag is also located in a Special Protection Area for its avian assemblage. Climbers are also asked to avoid climbing here near to dusk as it's an important roosting site for choughs.

The routes on the Eastern Face are heavily vegetated and contain birds for most of the year and is probably best avoided altogether! Restrction here is from March 1st until July 31st inclusive.

Central Buttress - No restriction for 2018 

The main face - The Bastion is unaffected by the seasonal restriction.

CRoW Information

The crag is on land mapped as open access.

Group Advice

The easier routes on the right hand side of the Bastion have been used by outdoor groups for many years.

Area information

A very extensive area -extending from the sea-cliffs of Cardigan in the south-west to the mountains of southern Snowdonia (Cadair Idris and Yr Arran massif) to the gritstone outcrops of the Rhinogau, to the old slate quarries of the Dinas Mawddwy and Barmouth areas and as far east as the Berwyn hills.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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    Craig yr Aderyn

    Mid-Wales