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Ban-y-gor Rocks

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

A north-facing wooded escarpment on 'back' side of Lancaut peninsula adjacent to Wintour's Leap. Mixed ethic, sport routes predominating.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 187
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1988
Grid Reference: ST544968

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Group Advice

Generally unsuitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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3
Doug Copestake
08/05/2018
Any idea when access to the remainder of the crag is going to be reviewed in 2018?
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Anonymous User
08/07/2020
Is access to main cliff allowed BMC suggests it’s allowed by there is still a sing in place saying it not?
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    Ban-y-gor Rocks

    Wye Valley & Forest of Dean