Regional Access Database

Restrictions/ Sensitive Access Strata Walls (Linney Head)

Extensive cliffs with unusual rock strata.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Pembroke South Access Status Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
County Pembrokeshire CRoW Land No
Importance Regional No. of Routes 50
Ownership Ministry of Defence Year Developed 1991
Within National Park Yes Grid Reference SR882959





The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not firing (all weekends & Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.





Restrictions apply from  1 March - 1 August. Reason - Nesting Birds


Nesting restriction (1st March to 1st Aug) covers ‘Another one bites the dust’ to ‘Discovery’. Also Please avoid climbing when the seals are present.



 






Access is via Stack Rocks only until end of nesting season when approach from Gupton Gate becomes available (slightly shorter).




South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies.
There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS.

NB- Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South, Stackpole Quay or St Govan’s car parks. The PCNPA also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this link:-

http://pcnpa.org.uk/Files/files/Recreation/Climbing2014_english.pdf


It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café.

Range East

This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367.


Range West
UPDATE -Range West 2014 briefing dates will be on Good Friday April 18th, Saturday May 24th and Saturday July 26th. All briefings are held at Merrion Army Camp, Castlemartin SA71 5ER and start at 09.00hr – park next to the gatehouse and ask for details.

From Easter 2013 Access will be allowed for briefed climbers all year round on non-firing days only. This area is also used for live-firing but has a different arrangement for access to Range East, involving attending a PCNPA/MoD briefing and obtaining a permit to climb. Climbers must attend an annual briefing to obtain a valid permit.

IMPORTANT - LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe maner.





  
This page was last updated on 03/04/2013. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.