The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Restrictions apply from
1 March
-
30 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Parking and Approach
There are two main car parks for Dovedale:
If heading to the northen end of the dale, the best parking is the currently free PDNPA car park at Milldale. If aiming for the southern end, the main Dovedale car park between Ilam and Thorpe (which is now in National Trust ownership) is best. This is free to use for NT members, or pay and display for non members. The alternative for late arrivals is to park in Ilam with a longer walk, or approach from Milldale. For climbers approaching from the south and wanting to climb on crags on the west side of the river (Dovedale Castle, Dovedale Church etc) there are two possible approaches. Either follow the main footpath through the dale and wade across the river underneath your chosen crag, or alternatively jump the metal gate next to the stepping stones which gives access to a (overgrown and hard to see in summer) track on the west side of the river. Regardless of which route you use, please keep a low profile as whilst the National Trust are very happy for climbers to use these routes, they don’t want to encourage the general public to follow.