Waun Y Llyn Country Park

Clwyd Limestone

aka Hope Mountain.A local sandstone bouldering venue, the crag looks like it was a test quarry and is around 10-15 foot high in places. Its main feature is an impressive over hanging roof in the area directly below the trig point.Several smaller areas can be found as the crag runs intermittently NW for about 150 yds. A further larger, although disappointing area, can be found a short walk NNW cut into the left side of the far hill. There are good landings on most problems and is often sheltered from the worst of the wind.Many problems remain damp in the winter and the rock can be friable when wet, please treat it with care and respect.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 39
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SJ284578

Parking and Approach

There are no known restrictions climbing here, although as it is a country park and is popular with visitors and dog walkers, it is probably best to conduct oneself with some decorum!The car park shuts at 6 or 9pm depending on the season, but alternative parking for a few vehicles can be found on the roadside.To get there go along the mold-wrexham road from mold direction, the road will widen to a short stretch of dual carriage way and just as it narrows again there is a sign for 'Horeb' on the opposite (right) side of the road going uphill up a small narrow lane follow that to the top of the hill, you will then come across the entrance to the carpark, a short walk up a gravelled path brings you to the crag.
Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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