Sunny Wall

The Ormes

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 19
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH754837

Parking and Approach

This new bouldering venue is above the Marine Drive on the West Shore side of The Great Orme.As the Drive begins to drop down after 500 metres there is a little layby enough room for 3 cars,from here its up the grassy slope heading right for 2 minutes.Alternatively further down is a large quarried layby,from here up and left for 5 minutes.All problems have sitting starts bar an eliminate and all topout to a path above.Descent is to the left.Please be careful with the rock above the break and if unsure finish at the break...this does,nt affect the grade.There is another higher buttress 100 metres to the right which is still being developed...details to follow.It would now appear that Chris Pollard did most of these routes last summer but did,nt report them.
Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

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