St. Govan's East

Pembroke South

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

2019 - please beware of an area of particularly loose rock at the top of 'Body Language'. Most of this has been removed but the top out requires care!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 104
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SR9754692736

Parking and Approach

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Borad Haven South adn Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Range West 2023 Arrangements There is no access to Range West unless you have completed the annual safety briefing and handed your form into the guardhouse. You must report to the guardhouse before and after each climbing visit to Range West. The briefing dates for 2023 are as follows: Thursday 19th January 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 25th February 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 23rd March 2023 at 18.00 Friday 7th April 2023 at 09.00 Saturday 27th May 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 15th June 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 29th July 2023 at 09.00 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembrokeshire-a-year-in-review Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
30/05/2021
Herring gull nesting at the bottom of Io, affecting Howling Gate to Dr Kiss Kiss