Northern Limestone (Inland)
Situated above the A55 with excellent views over the coast this venue has a great mixture of grades and boasts one of the best 7C trad line in North Wales - Release the Hounds.
The Great Corner E4 6a. WARNING! In mid-June 2023 two shoe-box sized blocks came off pitch 3. It appears that they were partly holding in place a 1m square block (weight around 2 tons). The block has deep cracks on three sides (and chalk on the top!) and its base appears to be resting on a smooth slab set at an angle of around 30 degrees. This type of micro-dioritic rock has been known to sheer off suddenly in large blocks, sometimes with catastrophic consequences.
The first two pitches seem stable at present but it may be unwise to attempt an ascent.
Parking and Approach
Park at Pendalar on the outskirts of Llanfairfechan and head for the old quarry incline which is visible towards the east of the town. The incline leads to a good track which contours the hillside and the crag is above this a short distance further east. It is on land mapped as "open access".For Camouflage Slab and Fence Buttress follow the regular access route 100 m along the contouring track (just beyond the "low fence supports" sign). From here follow a small track R up an overgrown incline to an old winding house. Fence Buttress is above the large mesh fence part way up this incline. For Camouflage Slab traverse the hillside R from just above the winding house on a faint path. The slab is just beyond the first sharp rock rib.
This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.
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