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Craig y Merched

Mid-Wales

Craig y Merched is the name of a number of gritstone buttresses at the head of the Cwm Mynach valley in the southern Rhinogau. All the crags have a sunny aspect and are quick to dry.The valley's honeypot is Rhino's Buttress. Even though it is quite scruffy and a long way from being the best or most accessible crag in the Rhinogau, this little buttress is (inexplicably) popular. Nearby is the far less visited Three Pillar Crag, which is very worthwhile and deserves far greater popularity. Similarly, the whole of Upper Craig y Merched is unfairly neglected. There has been a lot of development here since the 2002 guide, with loads of new routes on brand new crags as well as on existing ones. The area is currently being checked for a new guidebook.Further information: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/rhinog02to09august.pdf

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 250
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SH690231

Parking and Approach

All Craig y Merched crags are on open access land. However, the approach notes in Meirionnydd 2002 (p. 363) are useless on virtually all counts as they simply will not get you to the crag.Approach from the A496  on a steep narrow road as described in the Meirionnydd guide to to an obvious  gated parking area (Woodland Trust signs).  Then follow the track  through kissing gatres that lead from the car park. Follow this track for about 1000 metres to a junction and from the outside of a RH bend, take a faint path leftwards through trees and climb steeply up the scrubby hillside towards Craig y Merched.  Take great care not to damage the drystone wall at the top of the crag. 
Area information

A very extensive area -extending from the sea-cliffs of Cardigan in the south-west to the mountains of southern Snowdonia (Cadair Idris and Yr Arran massif) to the gritstone outcrops of the Rhinogau, to the old slate quarries of the Dinas Mawddwy and Barmouth areas and as far east as the Berwyn hills.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
21/11/2017
Revised Access Advice - November 2017

All Craig y Merched crags are on open access land with no access issues. However, the approach notes in Meirionnydd 2002 (p.363) are useless on virtually all counts as they simply will not get you to the crag and, in addition, the initially described approach is over farmland with absolutely no public right of way. To avoid trespassing, climbers must no longer approach the crags past Blaen Cwm Mynach from the small car park at the very end of the tarmac road. Instead, climbers must use the following approach to reach Craig Blaen y Cwm and all other Upper and Lower Craig y Merched crags:

Approach from the A496 as described in the Meirionnydd guide but do not continue over the small stone bridge over the Afon Cwm Mynach. Instead, park considerately just short of the bridge at SH683209, where a Coed Cadw forestry road heads off rightwards, ensuring that no gates are obstructed as access may be required at any time. Follow the forestry road as it gently rises uphill for about 2 kilometres to reach a staggered cross-road at SH687229. Now take the minor forest track on the right and follow this for about 100 metres and, from the outside of a RH bend, take a faint path leftwards through trees and climb steeply up the scrubby, overgrown hillside on a faint path towards Craig y Merched’s Rhino’s Buttress.

Submitted by:
Dave Williams
BMC Cymru Local Access Rep
Central Wales and Ceredigion Coast
Report abuse
Anonymous User
21/11/2017
Revised Access Advice - November 2017

All Craig y Merched crags are on open access land with no access issues. However, the approach notes in Meirionnydd 2002 (p.363) are useless on virtually all counts as they simply will not get you to the crag and, in addition, the initially described approach is over farmland with absolutely no public right of way. To avoid trespassing, climbers must no longer approach the crags past Blaen Cwm Mynach from the small car park at the very end of the tarmac road. Instead, climbers must use the following approach to reach Craig Blaen y Cwm and all other Upper and Lower Craig y Merched crags:

Approach from the A496 as described in the Meirionnydd guide but do not continue over the small stone bridge over the Afon Cwm Mynach. Instead, park considerately just short of the bridge at SH683209, where a Coed Cadw forestry road heads off rightwards, ensuring that no gates are obstructed as access may be required at any time. Follow the forestry road as it gently rises uphill for about 2 kilometres to reach a staggered cross-road at SH687229. Now take the minor forest track on the right and follow this for about 100 metres and, from the outside of a RH bend, take a faint path leftwards through trees and climb steeply up the scrubby, overgrown hillside on a faint path towards Craig y Merched’s Rhino’s Buttress.

Submitted by:
Dave Williams
BMC Cymru Local Access Rep
Central Wales and Ceredigion Coast
Report abuse
Anonymous User
10/03/2018
All Craig y Merched crags are on open access land with no access issues. However, the approach notes in Meirionnydd 2002 (p.363) are useless on virtually all counts as they simply will not get you to the crag and, in addition, the initially described approach is over farmland with absolutely no public right of way. To avoid trespassing, climbers must no longer approach the crags past Blaen Cwm Mynach from the small car park at the very end of the tarmac road. Instead, climbers must use the following approach to reach Craig Blaen y Cwm and all other Upper and Lower Craig y Merched crags:

Approach from the A496 as described in the Meirionnydd guide but do not continue beyond the small, narrow stone bridge over the Afon Cwm Mynach. Instead, park considerately just short of the bridge at SH683209, where a Coed Cadw forestry road heads off rightwards, ensuring that no gates are obstructed as access may be required at any time. Follow the gently rising forestry road for about 2 kilometres to reach a staggered cross-road at SH687229. Now take the minor forest track on the right. Follow this for about 100 metres and, from the outside of a RH bend, take a faint path leftwards through trees and climb steeply up the scrubby, overgrown hillside on a faint path towards Craig y Merched’s Rhino’s Buttress. Cross a stone wall to more open ground. The increasingly indistinct path now skirts the left side of the boggy ground ahead to reach the scree at the base of Rhino's Buttress. Allow 60 minutes or so from the parking to Rhino's Buttress (+15-30 mins for Upper Craig y Merched crags.)
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    Craig y Merched

    Mid-Wales