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Cox's Quarry

South East Wales

Cox quarry is an old sandstone quarry, and has had some development but very little. The rock is very loose and highly vegitated in many areas. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 20
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST216920

Restrictions apply from 31 March - 15 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is currently a Peregrine nesting in the centre of the main cliff. Any climbing from March to August should stay clear of these central routes and no development in the quarry should take place during this period.

Parking and Approach

Exit the M4 at Junction 28 and follow the A467 to Crosskeys, stay on the A467 passing the new Tesco on your right until you reach the Full Moon roundabout, take the 3rd exit then take the first left turn (signposted for an industrial estate) you should see a forestry commission track immediately to your right (park here). Walk up that track for about half a mile and lookout for a footpath on your left (it is a bit overgrown and easily missed). A good transit is the lights of the rugby club below at the northern end of the pitch. Follow this track steeply up hill and you will eventually reach the crag.Best to locate crag visually from Crosskeys before walking up. Or use GPS
Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/ Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
07/04/2019
South facing, damp in areas. 2 bolted routes. Has an overhang. Head for Crosskeys Rugby Club, under a subway. Youll see a track forks left upwards. Follow this past the wooden fencing for about 200m. Past an old stairway to the tight, then It double back left and progresses steeply up. Keep following path upwards. Pick your way slight right of base of rock face to bolted crag.
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Anonymous User
27/04/2019
Visited this crag today and noticed three short bolted lines at the base of this impressive quarry. Peregrines are also nesting here.
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    Cox's Quarry

    South East Wales