Regional Access Database

Banned White Scar

Historically banned crag with the amazing 'out there' Space Buttress.

BMC Area Lake District Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area South Lakes Limestone Access Status Banned
County Cumbria CRoW Land Yes
Importance Regional No. of Routes 20
Ownership Estate Year Developed 1973
Within National Park Yes Grid Reference SD459853





Following development of the crag in the mid 1990's, the landowner (residents of Crosthwaite and Lyth) expressed concerns about damage to the conservation value of the site. A 10 year moratorium on climbing was agreed by the BMC, on the understanding that after this, access for climbing would be restored. Extensive attempts to negotiate access at White Scar by the BMC and the Lake District National Park Authority have taken place after the end of the moratorium period, however the Landowners Committee, (which represents the residents of Crosthwaite and Lyth) continues to decline attempts at negotiation. As a result, the BMC is no longer in a position to support a voluntary climbing ban at White Scar. The landowner has advised that access to the crag is not permitted, however it is up to individual climbers to make their own decision whether to visit the site. Regardless of the current access situation, any climber who decides to visit the site is advised to observe the following points in order to maintain the image of climbers being responsible users of the countryside: - The crag is a Peregrine nest site and should be avoided during the periods stated below in the ‘Seasonal Restrictions’ section of this page. - The crag is within a SSSI with rare flora inhabiting the cliffs and approaches. No vegetation removal should take place. - Installation of more fixed equipment is strongly discouraged as this was a major issue which led to the initial access problems.






Peregrine nest on White Scar between 1st March and 30th Jun each year - regardless of any access agreements or otherwise, no climbing should take place during this period.










The area above the crag face is Open Access land. See map here; http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/enjoying/places/openaccess/default.aspx





With implimentation of the CRoW Act (2000), many Lakes fells and crags now have an Open Access designation. They also have many nationally important bird and plant species dependant on inaccessible crags/ledges and heather/mixed heath environments for survival.
During the bird nesting period, a number of species can be vulnerable to disturbance. The Lake District restrictions are monitored, variable (VR) and reviewed in April/May. If the birds do not nest, restrictions are lifted early. Check notice boards in shops, walls and cafés in early May for details and the BMC and FRCC websites.

New restrictions will be notified on the websites and with on-site notices.


To view the BMC's Lake District Green Climbing Guide click this link;
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/access_publications/BMC%202009%20Lakes%20Green%20%20Climbing%20Guide.pdf

  
This page was last updated on 29/08/2012. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.