Black Rocks (Eastville Park)

Avon and Somerset

Couple of crops of sandstone offering lots of Eliminate Problems on its rather featured faces. Located along the River Frome running though Eastville park. RIVERSIDE SECTION: Crag consists of a few slabs and aretes starting at roughly 3.5m rising up to roughly 6-7m as the face leads to a small cave/tunnel and overhang over the river, which leads to another face which isn't as solid as the right hand face (You can also walk along the top of the crag to access the left hand side). The majority of the rock to the right of the cave has been cleaned, but the crag does seem to get dirty after heavy rains. The faces feature some nice crimps, pockets, pinches and some huge jugs along with the odd decent sloper, often all close together enough to offer easier and harder versions of the same lines. Some of the smaller ledges are a little 'soft' so caution is advised when choosing what to pull on, although these are few and most are obvious. Landings: Its pretty close to the river so you may run the risk of getting wet. The ground under the first shorter face is quite angled right at the base so a decent spotter is advised, also in the first corner under the 'Pocket Billiards' project is a pretty big rock. After that the landing levels out up until the cave mouth, but its fairly thin and the problems get fairly highball/solo above it so again, spotter advised. Topouts: Easy above the shorter slab and the face above the first arete is blocked top centre by an overhanging tree but it is possible to move either left or right topout. Apart from that not bad up until the crack in the second corner in. Above that there is a root but its looking half dead so be careful. SICK TREE SLAB: Very soft landings on leaf-fall but currently topouts are filthy and rather spikey due to holly bushes.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 31
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST6180575930

Parking and Approach

Right by the river in a public park so please be respectful and keep the noise down, clean up your mess, make an effort and clean up any chalk, tickmarks etc. Walk though the park (either from the entrance by Muller Road or the other end on Broom Hill, (Snuff Mills carpark is very near) to the weir and footbridge and theres an obvious dirtpath to the right that leads towards the crags, turn left for the RIVERSIDE SECTION & right towards SICK TREE SLAB. Easily seen from the footpath so being respectful is a must, all recent encounters with locals have been friendly though it must be said. May be times of the year the Warden may ask you to not climb, due to roosting bats or nesting waterfowl, if so please be respectful and leave and please let us know here so we can update. Thank you.

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