The venue has two contrasting elements to it. There is a pleasant open bay which contains mainly easy to mid grade routes although most seem hard for their grade. It is high enough to require a trad approach with metal stakes and trees providing anchors above. To one side are some slabs with the easiest routes and this provides the normal descent down a line in a corner, an abseil or handrail may be considered prudent. There is also a line of steep wall which provides significantly harder routes and problems. There is much bouldering although some of the higher routes justify a rope. Top outs are suspect in places and the preplacing of slings should be considered for lowering off.
Parking and Approach
The crag is approximately 1.3km north of the A170 on the minor road between Keldholme and Hutton-le-Hole. Travelling from Keldholme, there is limited roadside parking on the right. Walk back towards Keldholme for approximately 30m where there is a path on the opposite side of the road heading down into the woods and right to the crag. Approach time 3-4 minutes.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .
Group Advice
The venue has been used for group use. Metal stakes should as always be treated with caution but there are sufficient trees to back up anchors. Descent down the slab may need protecting depending on competence. Caution is also required around parking and / or the approach along the road.
There are historical issues with "commercial" organisations being expected to pay for useage.