Lochtyn & Pen Bilis

Mid-Wales

Adventure climbing in a stunning location near Llangrannog on the Cardigan (Ceredigion) coast. "Discovered" in 1998 but only extensively developed from 2012 onwards.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 200
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1998
Grid Reference: 124527

A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of  belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.

Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/

A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.

 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

  1. Narayan Ghale Buttress:   No climbing on the extreme southern end of the buttress between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting herring gulls. Principally this affects the following rock climbs only: Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge. All other climbs further north on Narayan Ghale Buttress - from and including Dead Man Walking - are unaffected by this seasonal restriction.
  2. Ynys Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs south of the Topple Blocks Area on the east side of the island between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting birds. Additionally, climbers are strongly advised to avoid climbing in the Topple Blocks Area itself during this period if their presence causes any unnecessary disturbance to nesting birds on the seasonally restricted cliffs 100 metres to the south.
  3. Pentrwyn Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs between the Ynys Lochtyn low tide scramble descent path and Traeth yr Ynys on the East side of the headland between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting choughs. (To date, this area has not been developed for climbing due to loose rock and cliff instability and for this reason, future development is extremely unlikely. This seasonal restriction is therefore for precautionary purposes only.

Parking and Approach

Parking is only permitted in the formal car parks within the village of Llangrannog. Please do not park on the approach track or the passing bays on the track leading to the farm, as blocking this track has serious implications for access in the event of an emergency.

Note that Ynys Lochtyn is totally detached from the mainland and access (and egress!) is only possible for about two hours either side of high tide.

Group Advice

Not suitable due to the adventurous nature of the climbing and also due to the sensitive access issues.

Area information

A very extensive area -extending from the sea-cliffs of Cardigan in the south-west to the mountains of southern Snowdonia (Cadair Idris and Yr Arran massif) to the gritstone outcrops of the Rhinogau, to the old slate quarries of the Dinas Mawddwy and Barmouth areas and as far east as the Berwyn hills.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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