A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.
Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/
A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.
Parking and Approach
Parking is only permitted in the formal car parks within the village of Llangrannog. Please do not park on the approach track or the passing bays on the track leading to the farm, as blocking this track has serious implications for access in the event of an emergency.
Note that Ynys Lochtyn is totally detached from the mainland and access (and egress!) is only possible for about two hours either side of high tide.