Craig Bwlch y Moch

Snowdonia

A dolerite crag with quite a lot of history. Owned and managed by the BMC, the crag contains some of the very best outcrop climbing anywhere, mainly multi pitch and all grades from V.Diff to E7. The name in Welsh means 'The Crag of the Pass of the Pigs'

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: International CRoW Land: No
Ownership: BMC Owned No. of Routes: 191
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1951
Grid Reference: SH577406

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site -please spend a penny at the cafe to use the facilites (for customers only).

28 May 2019 - The blocks were inspected by professional geo-technical consultant (also a climber). The "boot flake" below the huge pinnacle of Shadrach is fundamentally unstable and could fall if any pressure is put on it (such as placing a cam or even a strong outward pull). This block is approximately 3.5 tons in weight and sits on a sloping shelf. On initial appearance the block seems to be secure but is in fact seriously unstable. However removing this block without also disturbing the huge Shadrach pinnacle is virtually impossible and potentially lethal and with that block weighing in excess of 35 tons and directly above the "boot flake" it's best avoided. Please do not try to do any work here yourselves! 

While highly unlikley to fall spontaneously, these blocks would cause significant damage to this area of the cliff and potentially even impact on the highway if or when they fall. 

The BMC is now urgently seeking professional advice on the next steps and until the area can be made safe it is strongly advised that people avoid this area of the cliff. Signs are being placed at the cafe, the base of the cliff and on the approach to the routes.

October 2017 - Damage from Storm Ophelia. Following the severe stroms and winds on October 17th, there has been a significant rockfall affecting the Belshazzar area, and numersous trees and branches have also been uprooted or fallen across paths.  It's likley that some ledges and cliff edges where mature trees are growing could now be unstable due to the violent swaying and shaking of these trees during the storm.  More info in this article

23 March 2016 One Step in the Clouds route.

Climbers are warned that follwing a substantial rockfall of loose blocks that previously formed the groove on the  first pitch of One Step in the Clouds, the nature of that route has now altered, some loose debris and rock still exists and the first pitch is now considered 4b/c in grade. 

CRoW Information

Will be dedicated as open access under CROW by the BMC.

Group Advice

Suitable - but can be very busy, especially at weekends, and a lack of low grade single pitch routes can make it difficult for novice groups.

Area information

A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
1
Anonymous User
16/07/2019
Its worth noting that there is a nest of honey bees at the end of the first picth of Hele Bebe. The bees are not agressive and a belay stancd can be found to the side of the tree out od their way. It might be worth any local bee keepers and also climbers investigating the feasibility of removing the nest.