Hornby Crags

The Ormes

The whole area which previously contained a mixture of trad and a few sports climbs has been extensively re-developed with a significant number of good quality mid-grade sports routes established.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 50
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1971
Grid Reference: SH753841

Choughs nest on Crescent Buttress and that section of the cliff only is subject to a seasonal restrction.

The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the  Wild cabbage and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not imact on this protected plant species. Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following on site meetings and negotiations only  Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong.  Observatory Butress and Central Butress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.. Please note for 2018, that the restriction period has been extended to July 15th. 

CRoW Information

On Open Access land. Find map here; http://www.ccw.gov.uk/

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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