Ban-y-gor Rocks

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

A north-facing wooded escarpment on 'back' side of Lancaut peninsula adjacent to Wintour's Leap. Mixed ethic, sport routes predominating.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 187
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1988
Grid Reference: ST544968

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area will be extended in 2018 once the peregrines which are now nesting on Main Wall have fledged their young. 

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access over the past 18 months or so and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access is contingent on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines nest on the crag and nesting restrictions apply (see restrictions info below)
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes left of Heady Days, not including that route.

Group Advice

Generally unsuitable for group use.

Area information

Weather Information

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08/05/2018
Any idea when access to the remainder of the crag is going to be reviewed in 2018?