Gogarth -Main Cliff

Gogarth Area

One of the most impressive and important sea cliffs in the world! A huge adventure fest of partially tidal climbing, extending across Gogarth Bay.  Quite committing with a difficult scramble descent to the base, well worth having a few grades "in hand"  for a first visit!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: International CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 90
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1964
Grid Reference: SH215835

Sea birds (usually guillemots), chough and occassionally Peregrines have been known to nest on Main Cliff and don't seem to be bothered by climbers. Having said that, it is best to avoid  the route Pentathol from March 1st  until  July 31st, due to nesting Guillemots, as it is very unpleasant to climb at that time and birds could be disturbed. 

In 2018 a pair of Peregirnes nested on the first traverse pitch of the route Cordon Bleu and that route and the routes immediately surrounding, it were subject to a climbing restriction. If the birds return this year, this restriction will be applied again - look out for on-site signs at the gearing up spot/descent gully.

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

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