Since the BMC Froggatt to Black Rocks Guide Book was published in 2010, ownership of the woodland above Overton which includes Turning Stone Edge has changed. The current owners live at Old Engine Farm on Holeston Gate Road, directly opposite the public footpath indicated as the access route for Turning Stone in the guidebook. There is no longer any permitted access from this footpath to Turning Stone where it meets the private woodland. Alternative access has been granted however, following careful negotiation with the landowner via Coffin Lane and Cocking Tor but it is crucial that this approach route is used to ensure continued access – see ‘approach and parking’ section below.
Access is granted on the condition that it remains low key and doesn't attract attention. The permision does not include permision to clean/remove vegetation, camp, or light fires/bbqs. Any of these or other activities beyond simply climbing will result in access being lost permenantly so please respect the landowners wishes.
Parking and Approach
Do not park on Holestone Gate Road as recommended in the current guidebook - the access situation has now changed and use of the below alternative parking and approach is crucial to ensuring access is not lost to this crag.
Park on the verge of Coffin Lane at the junction with Holestone Gate Road where there is room for 2-3 carefully parked cars at most. Do not try to squeeze extra cars in - this could cause access issues as the lane is regularly used by oversized agricultural vehicles. Access for climbers has been safeguarded after negotiation, providing the agreed approach is used. Follow the footpath off Coffin Lane past the top of Cocking Tor to a point where there is a ‘No Access’ sign and fencing, indicating the start of the land parcel which includes Turning Stone Edge. The footpath trends left at this point, though there is a well-worn path straight ahead beyond the ‘No Access’ sign. Climbers have permission to ignore this sign, and carry on straight ahead to the top of the crag.
Whilst the old parking is legally possible, it will result in the landowner banning all access to their land for everything, including climbing. Their land is frequently used illegally for antisocial behaviour and whilst they are prepared to tolerate low key climbing access, parking vehicles in the previously recommended location tends to attract the attention of other users.
Group Advice
Access to this crag is tenuous and low key access is crucial to continued good relations with the landowners, meaning groups of more than 2-4 of people are not appropriate and club meets or commercial groups in particular should avoid this crag.