Turning Stone Edge

Southern Gritstone

Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy and not all E-numbers - VS to HVS climbers will also find a number of classics.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 94
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SK343619

Access issues have recently been raised by the new landower who is concerned about the land above the crag being frequently used for raves, as well as gardening without his permision by climbers. Discussions are ongoing with the landowner (who lives at Old Engine Farm - opposite the parking) so please avoid the crag for the time being whilst we attempt to negotiate access.

Parking and Approach

Limited parking is available on Holestone Gate Road, opposite Old Engine Farm, but it is crucial that any cars are well parked (avoiding blocking the road or gates) so not to cause problems for local farmers and residents. 

A public footpath leads from the parking, across the field and around the right side of the copse (not through the middle) and from here diagonally to the far right corner of the field.

Area information

Weather Information

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