Turning Stone Edge

Southern Gritstone

Hidden away on a rhododendron cloaked hillside the edge provides good climbing in an away-from-it-all location. Generally very good quality grit with the occasional friable hold, usually on overhangs. Each buttress has its own character, from the giant roof of 'Happy Landings', the overhung Sugar Loaf Buttress, to the blade like arete of 'Master of Suspense'. Lots of overhanging thuggishness, but this is interspersed with touches of delicacy. Not all E-numbers, VS to HVS climbers will also find more classics than they can shake a bowsaw at!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 94
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SK343619

Private property signs have been erected along the path that forms the desire line to the crag, but is not in fact the right of way. The right of way is described below and should be used if accessing the crag despite being less direct. The BMC is under the impression that the Forrestry Commision own or manage the land below the crag and are happy for climbers to access it, but a private landowner owns the land used to approach the crag so please keep to rights of way whilst crossing the fields on the approach.

Parking and Approach

Limited parking is available on Holestone Gate Road, opposite Old Engine Farm, but it is crucial that any cars are well parked (avoiding blocking the road or gates) so not to cause problems for local farmers and residents. 

A public footpath leads from the parking, across the field and around the right side of the copse (not through the middle) and from here diagonally to the far right corner of the field.

Area information

Weather Information

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