Mowing Word

Pembroke South

The promontory between Raming Hole and Stackpole Head offers some excellent climbing for the mid-grade climber in a spectacular setting.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 66
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1967
Grid Reference: SR991942

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

Parking and Approach

Park at NT car parks at Barafundle or Broad Haven, or near the T junction close to the Stackpole Centre (space for a few cars)

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Borad Haven South adn Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Range West 2023 Arrangements There is no access to Range West unless you have completed the annual safety briefing and handed your form into the guardhouse. You must report to the guardhouse before and after each climbing visit to Range West. The briefing dates for 2023 are as follows: Thursday 19th January 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 25th February 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 23rd March 2023 at 18.00 Friday 7th April 2023 at 09.00 Saturday 27th May 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 15th June 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 29th July 2023 at 09.00 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembrokeshire-a-year-in-review Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

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