Craig y Forwyn (Worlds End)

Clwyd Limestone

Quality outcrop with numerous excellent routes in a commanding position - nice rock. 


Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 135
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1962
Grid Reference: SJ 23502 47752

Climbers are asked to use slings if using the trees for belaying or abseiling to avoid ring-barking.  The crag is just outside the Open Access land boundary.

Parking and Approach

Parking for World's End is limited. Do not park in the designated passing places or laybys on the road. Parking is suggested up the hill after the ford in the area before and after the cattle grid up on the moor and then walk back down the road to the gate for access to the crag. Do not block gateways or create an obstruction.


Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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Please note there are a number of routes where there are large loose rocks and boulders liable to fall or come away! This includes top roping, gear placement or setting up abseils.

• Coltsfoot Corner - To the right of the upper section approximately 2 metres anove the ledge

• Left Edge - The left facing flake towards the top is the right side of a large loose boulder.

• End Flake and Recession Blues - Very large loose boulder.