Northern Limestone (Inland)
The landowner of the land and house on the land above the cliff approached the BMC in April 2018 stating that they do not want climbers on their land and stating that climbing is not allowed on this crag. This situation was exarcebated by two climbers who parked in their private drive and approached the crag by trespassing and climbing over gates and fences on their land.
Further investigations show that the cliff face is actually registered to a different land owner but the landowners of the land at the top of the cliff make it clear they do not want climbers on the cliff. They also dispute the land registration ownership details.
Do not under any circumstances approach the cliff from the top. This is private land over which there is no public access. Access should only be along the public right of way that passes the base of the cliff, past Ty Ucha Farm.
Parking and Approach
From the east (Chester etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (junction 23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then immediately left towards Old Colwyn (A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and park in the normal Castle Inn cark park on the right up Tan-Y-Graig road. From the west (Llandudno etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (junction 22). Turn right under the expressway and soon turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas / Abergele (A547). After about 1.5 miles and after crest of the hill, turn right up Highlands Road for around a third of a mile and turn up left onto Tan-y-Craig road and park at Castle Inn, in the car park below the quarry.
Please don't park on the nearby lanes.
From the carpark at Castle Inn, head right out of the car park back along Tan-Y-Craig Road, for about 200m, then take a sharp left down a public right of way through wrought iron gates towards Ty Ucha farm. Go through the gate in the bottom of the farmyard and follow the wall around to the right to a metal gate. Follow the public footpath for about 300m to just before a wall and ladder stile then take a path right up to the crag. The access path arrives at the crag under the jutting overhangs of the route “The Gowling”.
Group Advice
Best avoided given the sensitivity around access.
This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.
Guidebook info currently being updated
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