Irby Quarry


Former quarry up to 50ft high, good for beginners but toproping sensible as holds can be friable. Previous belay stakes have been removed to make way for a new fence closer to the top. Negotiations and work ongoing to clean up and clarify access situation. The top was previously accessed by going to the second wall, and on the LH side of this scrambling up a small path and walking round the top of the quarry. Do your own checks on any belays.

Traversing the quarry proves an interesting problem in dry weather. The main wall does not dry quickly, but the other wall on the left faces the sun and dries more quickly, but not advisable after rain.

The quarry is owned by the local authority according to the Royden Park ranger (their map shows it very close to the National Trust boundary).

[March 2022] Some of the older stakes were removed when new fences were put in. Two strops and four sets of glue in bolts have recently been installed, covering around 8 routes. As per normal practice, using this equipment is up to the individual climbers - do your own checks.

Tree strops will help prevent regular slings harming the trees. Please backup your belay whenever possible.

Check for more and to get involved.

Crag information
Climbing Area: North West Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SJ251858

Minor venue but of some historical note. Reputed to be the last place Mallory climbed before his disappearance on Everest. 

Parking and Approach

Take the A540 NW from Heswall for 3mi, then R onto the B5140 towards Frankby. After 0.7mi at a junction by a pub turn R onto a smaller road to Irby Hill. The crag is on the R after 400m; take the footpath through a large wooden gate and up a lane to the foot of the quarry, upon entry the main wall is dead ahead and there is a smaller wall to the left hand side. Be sure to read the BMC notes.
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There has been a small rock fall left of centre, end of hand traverse, the rock that is left is Just OK but should be treated with respect.