Northern Limestone (Inland)
A large limestone slab in an old quarry. It faces south and tends to be sheltered. The friction is excellent but the rock quality isn't too good on those parts of the slab where it has a veneer of quartzy rock. The routes have been intensively cleaned and make best use of the good rock. Rock issues aside, the routes (F3 - F6b+) are actually very enjoyable. Double lower-offs.
Access here is generally good, the owner is local but amenable to climbers especially if you help remove some of the litter.
Parking and Approach
From the NT car park, cross the road and start walking eastwards on a narrow road, after a few meters turn right down a narrow lane, signed “5T Just for Access”, in 100m cross a stile on the right onto a public footpath, follow this down hill for 150m crossing 3 stiles, then head right into the quarry.
This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.
Guidebook info currently being updated
There are no files associated with this crag
Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.
Would you like to login to post your comment?
Alternatively if you do not wish to login you may post a comment anonymously.
Post my comment without logging in »
There are currently no comments, why not add your own?
We use cookies to ensure a better website performance, to analyse site traffic and to give you a more tailored experience. By continuing to use the website, you consent to our cookie policy.