Trevallen Cliffs

Pembroke South

A great cliff with a range of grades and partially non-tidal. Access is by abseil, usually adjacent to the route "The Hole".

Restrictions are in place for 2018 and are more extensive than in previous years due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 130
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1969
Grid Reference: SR968929

 Restrictions are more extensive for 2018 due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs....

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

No Climbing between "Meatloaf" to Breaking the Habit" inclusive due to nesting Choughs and also for 2018 "The Energy Funnel’ to ‘Enter the goat’ inclusive plus ‘Old Dog, New Tricks’.

The peregrine are back on the ledge at ‘The Hole’,  therefore the restricted area includes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’.

The main abseil approach past "The Hole" can not be used in 2018. For Sunlover wall it is possible to abseil from natural anchors/blocks above the routes (there is a grassy ledge 3m below the top at this point). For Trevallen Pillar etc. it is possible to abseil from stakes at the cliff top (low tide required).

 

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. NB- Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South, Stackpole Quay or St Govan’s car parks. The PCNPA also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map -available at the car parks and Mrs Westons cafe in Bosherston Range East This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 Range West Range West 2018 briefing dates will be a combination of both midweek evenings and weekends. . All briefings are held at Merrion Army Camp, Castlemartin SA71 5ER and last about 40 mins – park next to the gatehouse and ask for details. The briefing dates for 2018 are :- 22/2/18 Thursday evening 18:00 30/03/18 Saturday morning 10:00 (Good Friday) 26/04/18 Thursday evening 18:00 28/04/18 Saturday morning 10:00 24/05/18 Thursday evening 18.00 26/5/18 Saturday morning 10.00 (Whitsun B/H) Since Easter 2013 access is allowed for briefed climbers all year round on non-firing days only. This area is also used for live-firing but has a different arrangement for access to Range East, involving attending a PCNPA/MoD briefing and obtaining a permit to climb. Climbers must attend an annual briefing to obtain a valid permit. IMPORTANT - LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe maner.

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