Lower St Tudno's Buttress

The Ormes

A fine south face facing wall with some older traditional routes (inc. a very worthwhile girdle traverse) and some more recent good quality sports routes.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1972
Grid Reference: SH 745845

 Choughs are nesting here again in 2019, so the seasonal restriction will be in place on the whole of  Lower St Tudno's crag until July 15th. Signs are in place on the approach path to advise of this.

The approach path and belays at the base of the routes are very exposed and on a steep grass slope above a considerable drop - make sure the belayer is tied on (there are belay bolts along the base of the crag) and that the rope is long enough as many routes are longer than 30m. There have been very tragic accidents here in the past due to belaying/rope length issues.


Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal restrictions are in place until July 15th for 2019.

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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