Pandy Outcrop

Clwyd Limestone

A single pitch traditonal venue in a great setting overlooking the Ceirog Valley. Popular with local outdoor centres but also some good mid grade single pitch routes which can be rather neglected.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 24
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SJ193362

No known access problems for individual climbers. Parking can be an issue and there is only very limited parking at the base of the track leading to the crag. Consider parking in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.

Update mid April 2018 - it appears that the crag & land, previously owned by Wrexham Council (see the 'Group Use' notes below) has now been sold off by the council, as has the nearby Nantyr Outdoor Education Centre, who acted as a kind of informal local site manager. At the time of writing, the new owners haven't been tracked down, and their views on access & continued use are unknown. These notes will be updated once progress is made on that front.

Parking and Approach

Either park in the village and follow public paths through the woods or park at the small rough parking and turning point half a mile from the turning point in the village. Ensure you do not block any entrances or create an obstruction.

Group Advice

Suitable for Group use but it's important to contact the Nantyr outdoor centre before doing so to ensure that the site is not overused.

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT ON BEHALF OF THE LANDOWNER, WREXHAM COUNCIL: 

"Pandy Outcrop is owned and Managed by Nantyr OEC, on behalf of Wrexham CBC. Nantyr OEC is happy to continue access to Pandy Outcrop with minimal restriction. Individuals wishing to climb may access the crag at any time without permission, however groups must contact Nantyr OEC prior to a visit to Pandy Outcrop to ensure availability, for monitoring purposes and to confirm access arrangements. 

For information regarding the use of Pandy Crag, please contact Phil at Phil.Stubbington@wrexham.gov.uk or at Nantyr O.E.C. on 01691 712833. 

Alternatively visit www.nantyr.co.uk"

Update early April 2018  the above notes regarding the site being owned and 'supervised' by Wrexham Council are now out of date and no longer apply. New ownership is under investigation.

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

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04/07/2018
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2) Anonymous
04/07/2018
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