As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop. from 25/03/2020
A cracking crag with natural pocketed limestone of good quality and sun trap tendencies make it a good all year venue, but particularly in winter when everywhere else is too cold. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).
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The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction applies from Flying Doctor to Central Wall inclusive to protect nesting birds.
Parking and Approach
From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.
Guidebook info currently being updated
There are no files associated with this crag