Madeira

Madeira’s not just home to sweet wine and honey cake. As Kathy Carter discovers it’s also the ideal winter getaway for hill walkers.

Madeira may not be top of walkers’ wishlists in terms of hiking destinations, but without good reason. It has a perpetually pleasant climate, astounding views, a dramatic coastline, and, to paraphrase a mineral water advert - a good deal of volcanicity.

Lying in an area of the Atlantic where the ocean crust is 130 million years old, Madeira’s volcanic past has resulted in a breathtaking landscape of hills, valleys and mountain peaks. A hot spot for tectonic activity in years gone by, the island’s craggy landscape is now perfect for hill walking. With a good proportion of the island at least 1000m above sea level, think fresh air, glorious rugged views and the chance to look down upon a blanket of cloud.

The levada walks
Get acclimatised with the levada walks. The levadas are a unique system of irrigation channels that transfer water to the drier southern parts of the island, running for around 2000 km. Hikes along the many levada routes are popular and the paths well-maintained. The 8km Valley of Rabaçal levada route through the ancient Laurisilva Forest is a good place to start. The forest, which is millions of years old, covers two thirds of the island, is listed as a World Natural Heritage UNESCO site, and has walks especially popular with the local islanders – high recommendation indeed. Those with rose tinted glasses claim that the levadas were built by the original settlers, but in reality slaves were used in their construction. The slaves risked their lives by building channels in inaccessible areas, so as you’re experiencing their natural beauty, it’s worth remembering just how the routes were constructed.

Head up into the clouds
Once you’ve got your bearings and explored some of the island’s easier hikes, it’s time to head up into the clouds. As Madeira is so steep and the topography so challenging, it makes sense to take a car, taxi or bus to many of the destination start points; all of the main walking routes have well maintained parking areas. A popular route on the island for adventurous hill walkers is the hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. Pico Ruivo is the island’s tallest peak at 1862m, with Pico das Torres and Pico do Arieiro following at 1851m and 1818m respectively. The hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo is only a four-mile route, but a challenging one, with hikers encountering steep hills, precipitous trails and long, dark tunnels.

Terry Marsh is author of the New Holland’s guidebook ‘Madeira’, and he recommends the Pico Ruivo hike to anyone wanting a challenge. “It isn’t a long walk in itself, but it crosses the very heart of mountainous Madeira in stupendous fashion,” he says. “It has breathtaking views and a few precipitous drops along the way. It’s a real rugged mountain route, yet within the scope of any regular walker who comes to Madeira properly equipped.”

Terry should know, he’s been walking since the 1960’s. “I’m happy to walk anywhere in the world, and have travelled extensively; but Madeira is still a very special destination for me,” he explains. “It offers a rugged and invigorating walking opportunity, backed up by a marvellous climate, beautiful scenery, good food and friendly people.”

Walking in Madeira also means experiencing a wide variety of wildlife en-route to the peaks; the lofty lily of the valley tree, the herbaceous agapanthus and the Madeira orchid. Bird watchers are also in for a treat on Pico Ruivo - the white-tipped-tail rock sparrow can usually be seen above the coastal cliffs, while the kestrel, sparrowhawk and buzzard often circle overhead.

At the end of the hike you’ll reach the tip of Pico Ruivo, which can also be reached from the slightly touristy village of Santana. This spot is definitely the highlight of a trip to Madeira, thanks to its stunning views across the island. However, the Arieiro to Ruivo route can get chilly and slippery in places, so walkers are advised to prepare for all eventualities clothes-wise, and also take a small torch for the eerie tunnels that await.

Essential facts: Madeira

Getting there
A range of airlines flies to Madeira, including XL Airways (www.xl.com),
Thomson Fly (www.thomsonfly.com) and British Airways
(www.britishairways.com).

Sleeps and eats
Accommodation is plentiful and of a very good standard – visit the official Madeira Tourist Board’s website at www.madeiratourism.org. There are many great restaurants across the island. The traditional Madeiran dish is Espetada - large chunks of beef rubbed in garlic and salt then grilled over wood chips.

Car hire
Car hire is recommended, but watch out - the locals tend to drive fast and the routes are winding.

Maps & guides
Maps aren’t up to OS standards, but the Serviço Cartográfico do Exército’s Military Maps of Madeira, and the Instituto Geográfico e Cadastral’s Ilha da Madeira maps are reportedly the best. For further reading check out Levadas and footpaths of Madeira Maps by R. Quintal (ISBN: 972 9177341) and Madeira by Terry Marsh (ISBN: 978 184537 5553.)

When to go
Madeira averages a maximum of 24°C from July to October, while temperatures drop around 4°C during the winter. Walks over the higher peaks are colder and more challenging in winter, when Pico Ruivo and Arieiro’s peaks may also be snow covered.

The Madeira Islands Walking Festival
15th - 19th January
The annual event consists of 20 pre-designated routes designed by the Region Forest Bureau, including challenging forest and mountain hikes that take a day to complete. See www.madeiraislandswalkingfestival.com for details.