Long wait for Longridge finally over!

Posted by Tony Ryan on 17/10/2007
Craig y Longridge. Photo: BMC

The threat of destruction that has hung over one of the country’s most important bouldering areas has finally lifted, with the news that the BMC has purchased Craig y Longridge.

Craig y Longridge may not be known by all, but it has long been the secret of that famous Lancashire strength. A gritstone outcrop, over one hundred metres long, overhanging by twenty degrees, and never reaching more than four metres in height, it is the perfect bouldering and training venue. Throughout the years, the great and the good of the Lancashire climbing scene have developed their Blackburn-sized biceps and Clitheroe-shaped crimp strength, producing some of Britain’s climbing greats, including Dave ‘Raindogs’ Kenyon, Mark ‘Cry Freedom’ Leach and Ian ‘European Champion 1998’ Vickers.

In recent years, access to this much-loved venue has hung in the balance. The landowner, who ran the adjacent caravan park, became concerned about liability, and threatened access, and even considered filling in to facilitate building development. The BMC access team immediately began negotiations, but as a successful outcome continued to elude the team, it was decided that the ultimate step had to be taken.

Beginning three years ago, the BMC, supported greatly by local climbers, began to raise the funds to purchase the crag. Finally, on 16th October, the sale went ahead, and the crag is now owned by climbers. To fund the purchase, local climbers, organised by Pete Black, stumped up £4,000, while the BMC contributed the remainder. This now puts the crag along with Stone Farm Rocks, Horseshoe Quarry, Aldery Cliff and Craig Bwlch Y Moch as one of the number of BMC-owned and managed properties.

The next stage is to set up a management group. This will take care of sorting out fencing, making improvements to the ground, as well as taking care of the day to day running of the site.

With rights comes responsibilities, and while free access can now be enjoyed, there were a number of ‘covenants’ that were part of the legal agreements. Theses include all the normal reasonable behaviour suggestions (as set out in the BMC Crag Code), as well as three other specific points: no music, no dogs, and no climbing before 10am or after sunset.

But these are small points. This has been a tremendous success for local boulderers, British climbers and the BMC. The BMC are very pleased with how the project has gone, and acknowledges the role played by local climbers in raising the money and spearheading the efforts, as well as all those who showed tolerance and respect throughout the previous years.

Finally, at times like this the BMC really needs your support. It relies on your subscriptions to fund its programmes, relies on your membership to give it a voice, and relies on your participation to give it direction. Join today.



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 1144 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Guidance for new outdoor climbers
0
Guidance for new outdoor climbers

As the lockdown comes to an end in parts of the UK and many climbing walls remain shut it could mean that more people than usual are thinking about venturing outdoors to get their climbing fix. This article is aimed at giving some general advice for people who wish to make the transition.
Read more »

Best of BMC TV: Top five trad climbing films for lockdown
0
Best of BMC TV: Top five trad climbing films for lockdown

Do you hear that? Nuts, cams and hexes chinking together to create the tune of tradventures out on rock. Okay, so the gear jingles may be faint echoes these days, but fear not, we're bringing them back. We've headed down into the BMC TV archives and pulled out our favourite trad climbing films to make up for this temporary trad absence. Sit back, relax and watch our top five picks:
Read more »

Pembroke: Range West dates 2020
0
Pembroke: Range West dates 2020

Spring is fast approaching and for many the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire are calling. To access some of the best adventurous sea-cliff climbing in Wales many climbers head to Range West on the Castlemartin Army Range.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Guidance for new outdoor climbers
0

As the lockdown comes to an end in parts of the UK and many climbing walls remain shut it could mean that more people than usual are thinking about venturing outdoors to get their climbing fix. This article is aimed at giving some general advice for people who wish to make the transition.
Read more »

Best of BMC TV: Top five trad climbing films for lockdown
0

Do you hear that? Nuts, cams and hexes chinking together to create the tune of tradventures out on rock. Okay, so the gear jingles may be faint echoes these days, but fear not, we're bringing them back. We've headed down into the BMC TV archives and pulled out our favourite trad climbing films to make up for this temporary trad absence. Sit back, relax and watch our top five picks:
Read more »

Pembroke: Range West dates 2020
0

Spring is fast approaching and for many the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire are calling. To access some of the best adventurous sea-cliff climbing in Wales many climbers head to Range West on the Castlemartin Army Range.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »