11-year-old Josh Ibbertson wants to climb 11 8as before he turns 12. He's already ticked five, including the classic Raindogs at Malham Cove; now he's ticked his first 8a+ while on half-term holiday in Frankenjura, Germany.
Lots of climbers feel the route is stiff and more like an 8b, but Josh didn't think it was that hard and commented that 8a+ was fair! We asked Josh a few questions to find out how he got so strong, and what his next ambitions are.
It’s hard to remember when my first climb was. Until I was eight I mainly just played at the bottom of the crag while my parents climbed. My dad would set up big rope swings, which was fun. I think I led a couple of 3s or 4s in Orpierre when I was seven, and top-roped the starts of routes.
I started climbing properly after I met Ed and Sam Hamer, along with Ethan Walker and Alex Barrows, in Gorges du Loup and they told me about the BMC Youth Climbing Series. So then I stared climbing indoors regularly and competing that year.
In the summer holidays when I’d just turned nine, we went to Gorges du Tarn and that’s when I really got into leading outside. On the first day of the trip I red-pointed a 6a, then flashed a couple of 6bs, and at the end of the week I got my first 7a+. That’s when I became really obsessed!
I usually train three times a week inside, mostly at the Leeds Climbing wall and the Climbing Depot. But before the Youth Open competition I sometimes did four sessions a week. Two weeks before a competition or a trip I train much less so that I’m feeling fresh.
On family holidays we often go away to France, Germany or Spain to climb, mountain bike or surf. In spring and summer I climb outside at weekends but in the winter and autumn it’s a bit cold. Recently I’ve been out on the grit a little.
What's my secret to being so strong at just 11? Mmmmmmmm not sure. Bouldering and trying hard helps.
I really like getting outside and going to loads of cool places and meeting inspirational people. The feeling you get after you send a hard routes is great, and when you get down you’re thinking 'what’s next!'
My advice for anyone my age wanting to improve is: just do lots of climbing, don’t worry about the grade too much. If you climb lots of routes and work up through the grades, the harder grades will come much easier later. I spend most of my time climbing routes I can get in one or two tries and only project things every now and then.
I'm definitely interested in getting into trad when I get a bit older. I have done a few trad climbs but only on safe easy lines placing the gear. I guess I never really thought about trying styles like ice climbing but it’s all something I may consider in the future.
I’ve just been selected to be on the GB Lead Climbing team so I’m psyched to do well in the comps but I’m also keen to climb lots of routes outside too. I haven’t on-sighted 7c yet so that would be good.
I’d like to climb 11 grade 8 routes while I’m still 11 so I’ve got five more to go!
Youth Outdoor Climbing Courses
.jpg)
Whether you want to make the leap from indoor climbing into Sport or Trad climbing outdoors, we run many courses across the country and throughout the year that are specially for 11-17 year olds.
Subsidised Youth Course Places
.jpg)
There are a large number of free places on courses for families who may struggle to afford it. Any families who live in rented accommodation and who receive income support or universal credit may contact the instructor of a course or Alex West for a place.
U27 Membership
From just £1.77 a month it's never been easier to join and support our work:
« Back
This article has been read
429
times
TAGS
Click on the tags to explore more