First gold ever for Anak Verhoeven and second for Romain Desgranges in the fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Arco, Italy. While the IFSC Speed World Cup saw crowd favourites add to their collection of consecutive gold medals.
The women kicked off the Arco event in the best of traditions on the intimidating wave roof, which was insurmountable for most. Jain Kim of South Korea was out first and her impressive effort was tough to beat, as nearly all the other elite athletes failed to reach her high point just before the final headwall. And it wasn’t until the final competitor stepped up, Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, the only climber to have topped out in the semi-finals, that Kim’s high point was surpassed.
Gold went to Anak Verhoeven, the first ever senior World Cup victory for the 20-year-old, while Jain Kim took home the silver medal and Janja Garnbret of Slovenia placed third for the bronze.
In the men’s final, a last-minute surprise entry from former champion Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, his first IFSC event of the year, added to the usual faces in the line-up. Ondra set an early high point in a climb that appeared extremely technical whilst requiring exceptional endurance, but this would not be enough. Ondra’s highpoint was breached first by Dmitrii Fakiryanov of Russia, then by Jakob Schubert of Austria, and finally by Romain Desgranges of France.
Romain Desgranges took gold due on a countback to semi-finals, his second IFSC Lead World Cup win, Jakob Schubert placed second and Dmitrii Fakiryanov claimed bronze.
Team GB
There was a great showing from the GB Climbing Team’s younger athletes at this premier event, with strong performances from William Bosi (33rd), Jim Pope (41st) and Connor Byrne (59th) in the men’s, and Molly Thompson-Smith (38th) and Jen Wood (42nd) in the women’s.
Focus now turns to the IFSC World Championships in Paris on 14-18 September, and the next World Cup round follows on 22-23 October in Xiamen, China.
Speed World Cup
Taking place at the same time as Lead, the IFSC Speed World Cup saw the setting of a fresh record and the matching of another.
Another victory for Anouck Jaubert of France saw her claim a third consecutive gold medal, the first time any woman has won three IFSC Speed World Cups in a row. Meanwhile, for the men, Marci Dzienski of Poland also extended his streak of wins to three and joined an elite club of athletes by becoming the third man to win three Speed World Cups in a single season.
Results
Men's Lead:
Romain Desgranges (FRA)
Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Dmitrii Fakiryanov (RUS)
Domen Skofic (SLO)
Adam Ondra (CZE)
Sebastian Halenke (GER)
Women's Lead:
Anak Verhoeven (BEL)
Jain Kim (HOR)
Janja Garnbret (SLO)
Mathilde Becerra (FRA)
Mina Markovic (SLO)
Anne-Sophie Koller (SUI)
Men's Speed:
Marcin Dzienski (POL)
Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
Bassa Mawem (FRA)
Leonardo Gontero (ITA)
Libor Hroza (CZE)
Aleksandr Shikov (RUS)
Women's Speed:
Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
Klaudia Buczek (POL)
Aleksandra (POL)
Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)
Anna Brozek (POL)
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