The GB Paraclimbing Team made a great start to the 2014 season at the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup competition in Laval, France last week. Team manager Graeme Hill reports.
Four climbers – Dave Bowes, Fran Brown, Sianagh Gallagher and Phi Mitchell – travelled with team manager Graeme Hill, to compete in a top-roped bouldering event which was held alongside the final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup. Despite industrial action in France, we managed to get to Laval without any disruption; maybe because we were flying Air France they were kind to us!
The qualification round took place at La Baconnière, a short distance from Laval. Competitors were allowed five attempts on each of eight problems with warm-ups but no isolation. It was a first experience of international competition for Dave and Phil, but they weren’t fazed at all and performed admirably, Dave flashing all eight problems and Phil flashing seven. Fran also flashed all eight, and Sianagh climbed three problems.
It was more challenging for Sianagh because she had been moved into the Neurological Physical Disability category where problem setting is very different. All four GB team athletes qualified for the final, which was held on the following day at the Salle Polyvalente in Laval, prior to the final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup, in which Shauna Coxsey was attempting to become the overall series champion.
With flashing lights, music, a huge audience and MC Christiano’s commentary , the finals had a superb atmosphere. All athletes had three problems to attempt with time limits but no bonus points. It was good to see that the problems had been notched up a grade following the qualifiers, providing a big challenge for everyone.
Sianagh made attempts on all three problems but struggled again because of the nature of the setting and her category change. She still put in superb effort drawing some big cheers from the crowd.
Phil was up against Spain’s Urko Carmona Barandiaran, and put in an excellent performance to match Urko except on the first problem where arguably the rope hindered Phil’s movement; not bad for a first timer. Random fact: Phil’s ape index is +8 ½ inches.
Dave also climbed tremendously, beating off the challenge of two Spanish competitors and coming in just short of highly experienced Mathieu Besnard of France.
The most gripping battle was between Fran and Oriane Moreno of France, who started her first bloc with a false start but managed to top all three with fewer attempts. Fran also had the misfortune of a false start, distracted by a small injury from the top rope under her arm. Oriane beat Fran to gold for the first time ever.
Thank you to the FFME for organising a brilliant event with lots of glitz, smooth operations and great audience participation. I think Fran signed over 200 autographs. It was also good to catch some time with the GB Senior Bouldering Team during the event to exchange stories and tips. Well done to Shauna Coxsey for getting Silver overall!
Without the support form Wild Country who provided part funding and chalk/buckets and harnesses we wouldn’t be able to attend or send as many team members to the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup events; thanks for making it possible.
The GB Para Climbing Team are also supported by Sherpa Adventure Gear
The next Paraclimbing Cup event:
The next event in the 2014 IFSC Paraclimbing Cup series takes place in Imst, Austria on 4-5 July.
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