New information has come to light and the access situation at Craig y Forwyn has changed.
In early December climbing resumed at the crag following discussions with a local farmer who the BMC understood owned the whole of the cliff face and a strip of land along the base. Over the Christmas period however, the owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park (below the crag) has provided evidence to the BMC indicating that he owns the central section of the crag and the land beneath it.
The BMC is in the process of seeking a definitive ownership plan from the farmer with whom we have an access agreement, but what is now evident is that ownership of the central section of crag (between Staircase Gully and Purple Haze – marked by two A-frame stiles at the base of the crag) is unclear as both parties appear to be claiming ownership.
The owner of Plas Newydd has stressed to the BMC that he is not prepared to allow climbing on the section of crag shown on his deeds and site plan. Until such time as the ownership boundaries are clarified the revised access situation for climbers is therefore as follows:
1. We still have an agreement with the cliff top landowner that we can climb on the sections of crag either side of the central section (i.e. either side of the section between Staircase Gully and Purple Haze). The routes to the right (facing the crag) of Purple Haze can be accessed by descending from the crag top, through woodland next to a wire boundary fence - check the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) for the full description - this avoids passing through the central section.
2. The owner of Plas Newydd Farm is not prepared to allow climbing on the central section of the crag and at present there is no access agreement in place to permit climbing in this area.
Until the ownership situation is resolved the BMC advises climbers to stick to the above arrangement and respect the position of the owner of Plas Newydd Farm. Thank you for your co-operation.
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