Craig Bwlch y Moch Descent Paths

Posted by Elfyn Jones on 25/02/2011
Climbers on the Ochre slab of Vector, Bwlch y Moch

A quick reminder to climbers at Bwlch y Moch that walking descent from the top of the cliff is only by way of the two recognised descent gullies, and not to cross the fence at the top or use the grounds of the neighbouring land owners.

Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog is owned and manged by the BMC on behalf of climbers. It was given as a gift to the BMC  from the previous owners, Mrs Williams and her family, who ran the cafe and garage at Bwlch y Moch before the well known mountaineer Eric Jones took over the iconic cafe in the 1980s.

However the BMC only owns the base of the cliff and the actual cliff face itself. The very top edge of the cliff is the boundary, so the neighbouring landowner actually owns the top of the crag and the cliff top path. An agreement between the BMC, the landowner and Snowdonia National Park has meant that in return for granting climbers access along the cliff top to belay and gain to the descent paths, the National Park obtained funds to replace the old fence along the cliff top. This is set back from the cliff edge in order to allow climbers to be able to walk along the cliff top path, and althougth it currently looks a bit raw and obtrusive, it should mellow considerably with time, as vegetation grows around it, and obscures it in the same way as the previous fence it replaced.

However there have been a number of incidents in the last few weeks where climbers have descended to the back of the cliff, exiting through the grounds and gardens of the neighbouring farm and house. Climbers are reminded that the only acceptable descent on foot is by using one of the two descent gullies, one to the west of Valerie's Rib buttress and the other the gully west of Merlin Buttress and that on no account should a descent be made by crossing the fence or through the grounds of the neighbouring Portreuddyn Castle.



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