The competition season may be over for Shauna Coxsey but Britain’s top female boulderer still has plenty on the cards. Katy Dartford spoke to Shauna about her year so far.
It's been a productive year for Shauna, who’s now ranked 4th in the world after this year’s IFSC competitions. Despite food poisoning she came second at the Adidas Rock Stars in Stuttgart, Germany in September and made the first female ascent of Dave Graham's Nuthin but Sunshine, (Font 8b) in the Rocky Mountain National Park.
It doesn't stop there. Shauna's now busy preparing this year’s Women’s Climbing Symposium at The Arch climbing wall in London; the only all-female climbing event dedicated to developing and inspiring women in climbing.
How was the Adidas Rockstars competition and did you mind coming second to Juliane Wurm?
It was an amazing competition. It was a shame that wasn’t able to fully enjoy it due to having food poisoning on Friday evening but the whole event was really high class. I could not be happier for Jule. She is a really good friend of mine and she’s an incredible climber.
How did you manage to climb at all with food poisoning?
Haha, I have no idea. I just kept smiling and trying hard.
How do the Rockstars events compare to the IFSC competitions? Is being able to look at the problems from a distance before the isolation closes useful?
There are so many differences. Looking at the problems beforehand doesn’t make so much difference for me but all of the small things that they think about behind the scenes make it so much nicer. The athletes are all treated so well, we get put up in the Hilton, we get fed and watered the entire weekend and we even get massages. There are also clocks in the right places and the mats are cleaned between rounds.
You’re currently ranked 4th in the world after the last IFSC competition in Munich. Are you happy with this, considering you’ve been injured?
I always aim to do better and improve. Although 4th in the world is a really good result I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little disappointed.
How do you feel the comp season has gone this year? Will you be making any changes for next season?
I have learnt so much this year and gained knowledge and understanding that success would not have taught me. More training, more prep and less injuries for next year (well hopefully).
Which was your favourite round of the IFSC bouldering comps?
I’m not really sure, I haven’t thought about it but if I had to say then probably Log-Dragomer.
How has having a coach helped?
My coach, Mark, has changed my entire life pretty much. I approach training, comps, climbing, eating, sleeping, resting, pretty much everything in life differently now! It’s amazing to have structure in training, someone to push me, someone to get me to keep going when I don’t want to and to stop when I need to. I now feel like an athlete.
How much of an advantage do other teams have that have managers, physios etc that travel with them?
I think they have a huge advantage! Less stress, no booking hotels and flights, no running around to find registration, listening to the technical meeting or worrying about appeals. They just arrive and compete.
Do you feel more pressure now you have large sponsors?
My sponsors are so supportive and I feel no pressure at all from them. The only pressure I feel is from myself.
The Women’s Climbing Symposium is on its way to London soon (2 November 2013). Have you climbed much at The Arch?
I love The Arch, it’s a great wall and the vibe there is always really welcoming. The staff are super friendly and I am really excited that they are hosting our 2013 event. We really wanted the event to move around the country to broaden our audience so more people can benefit from the unique day.
You have Leah Crane, Suzan Dudink, Audrey Seguy, Emma Twyford, Lucinda Whittaker, Ellie Howard and Katherine Schirrmacher as the coaching team – is it important for female climbers to have female coaches?
I don’t think it’s necessary but I think it can really help. Sometimes it is easier to relate to someone who is like you. These women all have extensive experience coaching and climbing.
Will the problems all be set by females?
Leah and I will be setting the boulders. The main reason is that it is easier to set boulders that you will be coaching on and we can test them all with the coaches the night before to make sure they are perfect for the workshops.
You have a lot planned for the symposium. What can we look forward to?
Wow this may take a while. There are eight professional female climbing coaches covering four different workshops. The training workshop will include a short talk with training ideas and information on how to train and an actual workout with the chance to win a Beastmaker 1000. The awkward/insecure holds workshop will give sneaky tips on how to get more involved on those annoying slopers and how to get better at holding big burly pinches. There's also a footwork workshop and dynamic climbing workshop which speak for themselves.
There will be three headline talks by three massively inspirational women – Angela Soper, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Ella Kirkpatrick. And there is still so much more. Eva Lopez, one of the most influential trainers in climbing will be talking. A professional nutritionist and experienced physio will be talking as well as Fran Brown and Emma Flaherty. There is the opportunity to take part in a yoga class too.
It really is going to be a great event and that’s what the past eight months of planning have been for. We want everyone to take something away from the day (as well the goodie bag).
Book your tickets for the Women’s Climbing Symposium
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