Wild camping creates problems at Tremadog

Posted by Elfyn Jones on 10/04/2012

Owned and managed by the BMC on behalf of all climbers, Craig Bwlch y Moch at Tremadog is an iconic traditional climbing venue. But poor behaviour and wild camping by a minority of climbers is threatening relations with neighbouring landowners at this popular site.

While the BMC owns and manages the cliff face and part of the old highway below the cliff at Craig Bwlch y Moch, the top of the cliff and the roadside part of the the old highway are privately owned.

In the last few weeks the BMC has received a number of complaints from neighbouring land owners about poor behaviour by climbers at this site. In particular some climbers have been camping at the base of the crag, leaving litter, cutting trees and vegetation for campfires and then cheekily using the nearby toilet and water facilities at Eric Jones's campsite nearby.

Eric Jones, himself a world famous climber and mountaineer offers a very affordable and cheap campsite for climbers only a couple of hundred yards away from the crag and is understandably very disappointed and annoyed by these individuals who are abusing his generosity and creating problems for other climbers.

Parking and highway safety issues at the small lay-by at the base of Vector buttress have also led to the Highways Authority to consider parking enforcement along the highway. This rough parking area is not wholly owned by the BMC and the landowner is now considering blocking up this area to prevent a repeat of the poor behaviour here.

The farmer who owns the land below and above the crag has also experienced a number of issues where climbers have descended from the cliff by crossing the cliff top fence, ending up in his farm yard. He has also had issues in recent weeks with climbers using the fields below the crag to play football.

Thousands of climbers enjoy the cliff in an environmentally aware and considerate manner each year but it is particularly disappointing that these problems arise at a crag owned by the BMC on behalf of all climbers and do nothing to help our efforts to secure access to climbing sites elsewhere.

Please help to maintain good relations at this important site by only parking at the cafe car park (which is available free when the cafe is shut), not camping wild below or at the crag itself, and please do not enter the fields below the crag and do not descend by crossing the fence at the top of the crag.

TremFest 2012
If you enjoy climbing at Tremadog and want to put something back into the climbing there, get along to TremFest 2012 over the weekend of 21-22 April.


« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 6382 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Pembroke: Time for Range West
3
Pembroke: Time for Range West

Easter is almost upon us and all eyes turn south and west to the delights of Pembroke. However if you want to climb at Range West in 2015 you need to attend one of the offical briefing dates held at Castlemartin Army Camp. Arrangments for 2015 are slightly different with many more opportunites to attend a briefing, so read on to get all the info you need to access some of the best limestone sea-cliffs in th world!
Read more »

Cwm Silyn rockfall warning
1
Cwm Silyn rockfall warning

A rockfall at Cwm Silyn in Snowdonia has left the upper sections of some classic climbing routes in a dangerous state, including well known and popular routes such as Outside Edge Route, Ordinary Route and other routes that finish near the top of the Great Slab.
Read more »

Welly done: curtain falls on summer of climbing and walking festivals
0
Welly done: curtain falls on summer of climbing and walking festivals

As part of the BMC’s 70th birthday celebrations, volunteers from across our local areas came together to host a series of climbing and walking festivals and put some welly into the summer.
Read more »

TremFest 2014 - a resounding success
2
TremFest 2014 - a resounding success

The sun came out and over 60 enthusiastic climbers and volunteers turned up on Saturday 17 May to give the cliffs at Tremadog a good spring clean and make TremFest 2014 a great success.
Read more »

Llanberis slate - Tarzan forces access closure
2
Llanberis slate - Tarzan forces access closure

Temporary access closures to the Dinorwig slate quarries at Llanberis are planned during June due to filming of a major Warner Brother movie, intriguingly involving Tarzan!
Read more »

Post a Comment
Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
8
1) Anonymous User
17/04/2012
Absurd behaviour from thoughtless individuals. Perhaps other climbers, who are members of the BMC, might remember that they co-own this crag and that they could help move these people along to somewhere else. If we lose the convenient pull-in, then we will only have ourselves to blame. Personally I would be in favour of the notice board being replaced where it used to be, pointing out who owns the crag and that camping and crossing the fence at the top of the crag are not permitted. I never understood why it was removed in the first place.
Andy Newton
2) Anonymous User
18/04/2012
I agree with a lot of this article although I disgree up one point - I don't think that climbers should have to pay to park at a climbing venue. I've always thought that Eric was a bit tight charging climbers to park when he is a climber himself!
3) Anonymous User
18/04/2012
"I don't think climbers should have to pay to park at a climbing venue" .....? What world are you living in? Who do you think climbers are which makes them so special? Eric has a business to run ..... get real. You can always park in Tremadog village and walk ...... or doesn't that happen at your local climbing wall?
4) Anonymous User
19/04/2012
<sarcasm>How dare these people play football in a field!, what is the civilised world coming to. Only the minority who own all of the land should be allowed to enjoy the countryside</sarcasm>
5) Anonymous User
19/04/2012
I can't see anything wrong with parking in the area below Vector Butress. People have parked there for decades. I always use it if there's a space. If there isn't , I park at Erics and pay up. The land owner has never previously frowned upon this. Neither has Eric, as we all go over to spend money in his caff irrispective of where we park.
Camping and leaving a mess is another issue. If this continues, take a picture of the mess and their vehicle registration and report them to the local authorities for fly tipping.
You might find the following link usefull:http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/HomeAndCommunity/WhereYouLive/Streetcleaninglitterandillegaldumping/DG_10029700
6) Anonymous User
19/04/2012
<sarcasm>How dare these people play football in a field!, what is the civilised world coming to. Only the minority who own all of the land should be allowed to enjoy the countryside</sarcasm>

So, all round to your house this weekend to play ball games, camp and have an open fire in your garden then eh? So what if you're using it to grow pretty plants or vegetables, or we terrify your kids' pets.
7) Anonymous User
24/04/2012
Clear notices would help at both top and bottom. Please can BMC broker this?
The farmer has a reasonable position and farms marginal land. He is there all the time. We are not. This and the beauty of the place should be respected.
Civilised commentary gains more respect than some of the remarks below.
Regards to all users
Martin Clowes
8) Anonymous User
22/05/2012
Just a thought...Are we sure these are climbers that are cutting down trees, lighting fires and leaving rubbish? I can't believe climbers would do this to such a venue, and to Eric and his caff. I think we should all keep our eyes peeled for these chavs!

RELATED ARTICLES

Pembroke: Time for Range West
3

Easter is almost upon us and all eyes turn south and west to the delights of Pembroke. However if you want to climb at Range West in 2015 you need to attend one of the offical briefing dates held at Castlemartin Army Camp. Arrangments for 2015 are slightly different with many more opportunites to attend a briefing, so read on to get all the info you need to access some of the best limestone sea-cliffs in th world!
Read more »

Cwm Silyn rockfall warning
1

A rockfall at Cwm Silyn in Snowdonia has left the upper sections of some classic climbing routes in a dangerous state, including well known and popular routes such as Outside Edge Route, Ordinary Route and other routes that finish near the top of the Great Slab.
Read more »

Welly done: curtain falls on summer of climbing and walking festivals
0

As part of the BMC’s 70th birthday celebrations, volunteers from across our local areas came together to host a series of climbing and walking festivals and put some welly into the summer.
Read more »

TremFest 2014 - a resounding success
2

The sun came out and over 60 enthusiastic climbers and volunteers turned up on Saturday 17 May to give the cliffs at Tremadog a good spring clean and make TremFest 2014 a great success.
Read more »

Llanberis slate - Tarzan forces access closure
2

Temporary access closures to the Dinorwig slate quarries at Llanberis are planned during June due to filming of a major Warner Brother movie, intriguingly involving Tarzan!
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 70,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £15.72.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »