Maeshafn Quarry

Clwyd Limestone

Sheltered suntrap with a fine selection of short trad pitches but lies on private land with very specific access conditions, that are essential to follow if access is to be allowed. 

 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 70
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1975
Grid Reference: SJ 21390 61517

The crag lies on private land with no public right of access beyond the approach path, which is a public right of way. 

Access is permitted only if the following conditions are met - it's is imperative that all climbers using the site adhere to these conditions :-

• Climbers must ask permission to climb, please pop into the farm and ask every time before climbing

• Large groups are not permitted.  Park considerately, not blocking gates or access tracks. Keep noise to a minimum, (No music, bluetooth speakers or ghetto blasters!)

  • Do not drop litter and please pick up any that you may see there. 

• Dogs to be strictly on leads at all times  -some groups have turned up with dogs off lead when there are sheep, lambs and cows in the fields.

• Lack of activity during lockdown has led to an increase in vegetation on the crag and top outs. Some of this has been cleared without the landowner's blessing and was cleared during a time when farmers are not allowed to clear vegetation (nesting). Please ask at farmhouse if it ok to clear vegetation.

 

Parking and Approach

Parking is minimal so dont block any enterances or turning circles for the farm vehicles. Park on the verge to the west of the crag. 

Group Advice

Groups may be allowed with prior consent.
Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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