Agreement Reached at Llanymynech

Posted by Elfyn Jones on 04/09/2010
Black Wall by Mark Glaister

An agreement has been reached for climbing at Llanymynech, involving the BMC, local climbers and the Montgomeryshire and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts.

After some concerns regarding new routing activity, liability and possible damage to rare plants, an agreement has been reached to allow continued climbing at Llanymynech. 

Arguably the most important climbing venue on the Welsh border and West Midlands, Llanymynech has become exceptionally popular due to a combination of ease of access, quality sports routes and a sheltered location. However the whole site is also nationally important for its nature conservation and historic and archaeological interests. This is why it’s a designated nature reserve, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Scheduled Ancient Monument, managed by both Montgomeryshire and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts.
 
Serious concerns had been expressed by the Wildlife Trusts that climbers were developing new areas outside of the historical agreement, and of real worries regarding their liability on the Cream and Bay Walls parts of the reserve. Bolts had been removed from the Foreigner Wall area due to worries that protected vegetation below the wall could be damaged, and vegetation had been cleared from an agreed no climbing area to the east of Red Walls.
 
Following a very positive meeting arranged by the BMC, involving local climbers and activists (including Gary Gibson and Nick Dixon), BMC Access Officer Elfyn Jones,  BMC access volunteers, and the Wildlife Trusts, an agreement has now been reached to allow climbing to continue at this venue. 
 
In brief, the agreement states that the Wildlife Trusts welcome climbers onto the site, but subject to a number of reservations. Chiefly these are that there should be no new routeing, vegetation clearance or bolting without prior discussions with the Wildlife Trusts, the no-climbing areas east of Clematis on Red Walls should be observed, as should the seasonal restriction on climbing on Black and Red Walls due to nesting peregrines from March 1st until June 30th.
 
Due to liability concerns Montgomery Wildlife Trust cannot officially give permission for public access (including climbing) to Cream and Bay Walls, but understand that climbers are likely to continue to use these areas, and in doing so are willingly accepting the added risk from unstable rocks. The signs stating “no public access” to these areas will remain and climbers going past these signs are knowingly and willingly accepting the risks from unstable rocks in these areas (there have been recent rock-falls affecting some routes in these areas).
 
The full agreement (currently in draft form) can be seen on the BMC Regional Access Database entry for Llanymynech.
 
At Foreigner Walls a further site meeting will be arranged to agree on which routes can be re-bolted and to work out details of a variable seasonal restriction on some routes on this wall, to protect the rare plants (mainly Bee Orchids) that sometimes grow at the base of this wall.
 
It goes without saying that it’s imperative that all climbers using this venue adhere to this agreement, and BMC are grateful for the cooperation and support of both local climbers, key activists and in particular the Wildlife Trusts for their part in negotiating this agreement.


« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 438 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Sea-cliff secrets: discover the new BMC TV series
3
Sea-cliff secrets: discover the new BMC TV series

Are you ready for sea-cliff climbing adventures? Check out the new five-part BMC TV skills series to discover the skills and techniques that you'll need for this new environment.
Read more »

Castle Inn: free training for group leaders
0
Castle Inn: free training for group leaders

BMC and Mountain Training Association Workshop Castle Inn Quarry: Best Practice for Groups. Do you take or lead groups climbing at Castle Inn Quarry? Do you know access to this venue could be in jeopardy due to over-use and behaviour issues? Do you want to know how to avoid these issues and protect access to this super convenient venue? Remember “Groups” include student groups, climbing clubs as well as organised schools, outdoor centres and instructor led groups! Read on for the details.
Read more »

10 sea-cliff climbing 'Don'ts' from filmmaker Mike Cheque
0
10 sea-cliff climbing 'Don'ts' from filmmaker Mike Cheque

There's no secret trick to climbing sea cliffs, but it's all too easy to mess things up, complicate the situation, or end up confused and off route. Help avoid an epic mega-faff and instead have an amazing adventure on the UK's sea cliffs with these helpful tips from Mike Cheque, creator of BMC TV's latest feature length film 'The Seaside'.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Sea-cliff secrets: discover the new BMC TV series
3

Are you ready for sea-cliff climbing adventures? Check out the new five-part BMC TV skills series to discover the skills and techniques that you'll need for this new environment.
Read more »

Castle Inn: free training for group leaders
0

BMC and Mountain Training Association Workshop Castle Inn Quarry: Best Practice for Groups. Do you take or lead groups climbing at Castle Inn Quarry? Do you know access to this venue could be in jeopardy due to over-use and behaviour issues? Do you want to know how to avoid these issues and protect access to this super convenient venue? Remember “Groups” include student groups, climbing clubs as well as organised schools, outdoor centres and instructor led groups! Read on for the details.
Read more »

10 sea-cliff climbing 'Don'ts' from filmmaker Mike Cheque
0

There's no secret trick to climbing sea cliffs, but it's all too easy to mess things up, complicate the situation, or end up confused and off route. Help avoid an epic mega-faff and instead have an amazing adventure on the UK's sea cliffs with these helpful tips from Mike Cheque, creator of BMC TV's latest feature length film 'The Seaside'.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »