The BMC has secured an access agreement for climbers to this limestone quarry in Somerset, which contains some high quality slab climbing.

Access for climbers will commence on Tuesday 13 July when the padlock on the gate will be replaced by a combination lock. The agreement is initially for a twelve month trial period and is based upon a number of common sense conditions which are available on the RAD and will be sent to all climbers registering to obtain the combination. These include:

• Not leaving the gate unlocked at any time
• Close supervision of young and inexperienced climbers
• Considerate parking

Download the 2010/2011 Fairy Cave Quarry Access Agreement

The combination for the lock can be obtained by emailing Ian Butterworth, BMC Access Rep for Mendip & Somerset, at fcq@btinternet.com stating your name, contact details and membership of BMC or any climbing club (BMC membership is not a condition of access). Ian will reply with the combination lock code. He will also maintain a list of those who have been given the code, so they can be informed should it be changed.

Local cavers have overall responsibility for the recreational use of the quarry, and maintain their relationship with the landowner through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climbers’ efforts to secure access; in order to maintain our good relationship with the cavers it is important that climbers shouldn’t do anything which might jeopardise cavers’ access to the site or their relationship with the owners.

With virtually no climbing activity in the quarry for several months it is important to take care with lower offs and abseil points. There will also be some loose rock and vegetation, plus there has been a substantial rock fall to the left of Rob’s Crack which may have affected some routes. Have fun, respect the agreement which is dependent on climbers acting safely and sensibly and contact Ian Butterworth if you encounter any problems.

Thanks to Ian Butterworth for securing this agreement on behalf of all climbers.
 

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