Castell y Gwynt

The Ormes

Atmospheric crag with 'out there' routes and some big numbers.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 20
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1976
Grid Reference: SH 75783 84444

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and  the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.

 

The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.

Group Advice

Unsuitable.

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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