A well used and historical peregrine nesting site is located on the right hand side of the crag. This is a very well monitored site with well documented historical records of productivity and success rate. Climbing activity close to the nest has attracted a lot of negative comments from local residents and from various conservationists. 

Following a site visit it has been suggested that no climbing takes places from March 1st until July 31st on all routes and sectors to the right of (and including) the route "Nuns and Soldiers". 

In the meantime be aware that this is an actively monitored site, located on land owned by Natural Resources Wales and if you encounter sign of agitated and noisy birds (lots of screeching and flying around in circles) then in all likleyhood you are disturbing the nesting birds and need to leave. It's best to avoid the upper tier (far right) of the crag completely until the end of July.

Any disturbance of the nesting birds (even if unintentional) is a criminal offence and South Wales Police have issued warnings to climbers leaving the site. 

Parking and Approach

rom the bus turning circle parking spot, follow a level(ish) grassed path from the bus stop into a meadow (75 m). Pass the small-holding buildings on their right as you go uphill to meet a stream in the top right cormer of the open area. Follow a narrow path to meet a wooden bridge (100m). 20 m past the bridge is a steep and very narrow path uphill, follow this until you meet an old tramway. Cross the tramway via a level path leading off to the right. After only 10 m, cut steeply uphill (left) on a poorly defined path, with cairns, through the conifers.

After about 400 m, the left end of the cliff is reached. Take a moment to stand in awe as your eye is drawn to the ever larger walls to the right.