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Taffs Well Main

South East Wales

 

Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***), Melting Man (7a), and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

 

The site is part of the Castell Coch Woodlands SSSI due to it's major beech population, and several rare species of orchid so please be considerate of the environment when using it. You can also observe a geological transition here from old red sandstone to carboniferous limestone; Taff's Well is the bridge to valleys climbing.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 69
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST128827

Parking and Approach

From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout, being careful not to block the Taff Trail cycle path that runs around the edge.
Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/ Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
31/03/2021
31/03/21: There appeared to be some nesting birds in the patch of vegetation on the wall adjacent to The Conneticut Connection, Calcite Ｗall
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    Taffs Well Main

    South East Wales