Located in private woodlands above Bingley and opposite St Ives is a long edge composed of many buttresses and blocks featuring high quality grit and somewhat reminiscent of Shipley Glen though, in places higher. Climbing has taken place here over many years and it is known that some 100 problems and routes have been climbed. However, the rocks are located in private, commercial woodland where there has been antisocial behaviour over many years. The landowner is sympathetic to climbing but has legitimate concerns about opening access that may encourage others to consider that the area is open to all and also about possible claims should an accident happen. As a result access was banned.
Following suggestions by local climbers that the BMC might instigate discussion to open access, contact was made with the landowner by local BMC Access Reps and the following has been agreed on a temporary and trial basis. The BMC have agreed to indemnify the landowner (for climbing by BMC members). Discussion will take place with the landowner at the end of the trial period to assess whether the period will be renewed and, if so, for what duration. Failure to follow these arrangements is likely to result in access being removed.
Access is for a trial period of 6 months
Only BMC members are covered under the arrangement
Climbing is restricted – Monday to Friday and the 1st weekend each month
Anyone visiting the rocks should respect the environment and behave responsibly
Keep noise to a minimum and climbing low-key to avoid attracting the attention of other visitors
No large groups
No litter – it would be very helpful if climbers bag any litter they find and take it away
No fires – please dismantle any ‘fireplaces’ you find to discourage others from lighting fires
No dogs
No Lamping sessions
Use the agreed access route
The crags are located within commercial woodland and forestry operations are ongoing - please follow instructions on any warning signs on site, avoid climbing near to any forestry operations and follow the instructions of any forestry workers you may encounter
Parking and Approach
From Cottingley Moor Road (B6146) turn onto the first section of Lee Lane. Follow this for just over a mile to ample parking just beyond where the road takes a ninety degree turn leftwards. Please don’t park further down the lane.
Follow the Millennium Way northwards to the corner of the woods, cross a wall at the stile to meet a broad path. For Ruin Bank Rocks go left here and the main crag is below St David’s Ruin, Park Rocks are reached by turning right at the broad path and lie below this path as it goes eastward.