The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).
The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.
Parking and Approach
Park in Peak Forest - usually spaces are available at the junction of Church Lane and Old Dam Lane but ensure you park well: not blocking driveways, gates or the road.
From the parking, walk east (right at the junction if approaching from Peak Forest) down Old Dam Lane and take the footpath on the left towards Oxlow Rake. This path takes you through a woodland block and from where you can get onto Access Land and cross this to drop into Conies Dale and the crag.
Take extreme care to avoid damaging walls, and be polite to anyone you meet.
Alternatively the crag can be reach via a longer approach from the north by parking on a track near Eldon Quarry and appraoching via the track and footpaths leading onto access land.