Pandy Outcrop

Clwyd Limestone

A single pitch traditonal venue in a great setting overlooking the Ceirog Valley. Popular with local outdoor centres but also some good mid grade single pitch routes which can be rather neglected.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 24
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SJ193362

The rocks are located in a block of privately owned woodland that are being actively managed.  Due to ongoing forestry operations, access may not always be possible and could be different from that described in the guidebook. 

Parking can be an issue. Do not park  at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking  should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.

The BMC has been attempting to get hold of the Land Owner, there has been no communication from them to confirm the access, we therefor ask any climbers to act respectfully if you are asked to leave. 

Parking and Approach

Park in the village and follow public paths through the woods. Ensure you do not block any entrances or create an obstruction.

Group Advice

To be updated.....

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
26/07/2018
25/07/18 no notice from new owners, some gardening has been done. THERE IS A WASP NEST AT THE TOP OF CANNON BUTTRESS!!! we had to retreat due to angry wasps leaving a sling and crab around the chockstone! The nest is at the top of the chimney, right next to anchor points for belays used by all climbs up the buttress.