Changes to Southern Sandstone bolted anchors

Posted by Rob Dyer on 24/09/2021

Following a review of bolted anchors on Southern Sandstone, the way we all use bolted anchors in the area is changing. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.

The current system of a main bolt (which takes all of the load), secured to a backup bolt with a swaged steel cable, has been used on Southern Sandstone for 30 years or more.

However, updated expert advice has recommended that this changes to both bolts equalised to a central point, in line with standard practice elsewhere.

It is not possible to equalise the bolts with in situ equipment in a way that is both strong and will not cause damage to the rock, so you will now need to equalise both bolts as part of your top-rope setup.

In the short term, all swaged wire backups will be removed from bolted sandstone anchors as soon as possible. Additional bolts will be placed where needed at Harrison’s and Stone Farm Rocks as part of an ongoing BMC program of renewing and updating bolted anchors.

You should arrive with equipment to allow you to equalise the double bolt anchors to a central point. There are many ways of doing this but the most common and easiest is to use either a sling or rigging rope with screw gates on each bolt.

Remember to extend the anchor point sufficiently to prevent your climbing rope from wearing the rock. It’s a good idea to use rope protectors over any rigging to prevent damage to slings/ropes and the rock from normal movement whilst belaying.

Above: one example of how to set up and equalised top rope anchor on two bolts with a sling. Note that here the sling is long enough that the central point hangs over the edge, which is essential to prevent wear from the moving climbing rope. In some cases, you will need to extend the central point to ensure it hangs over the edge of the crag, (as in the top photo).

The BMC would like to thank and acknowledge DMM for their assistance with testing.

WATCH: Respect The Rock // Southern Sandstone Bouldering

WATCH: Respect The Rock // Southern Sandstone Top Roping

DOWNLOAD: the BMC RAD app

Get all the info on crags with the RAD (Regional Access Database) app from the BMC! Available now for Android and iOS, it's free and comes with a host of new features like navigation and parking, weather and tidal updates, and of course information on restrictions or notes on access advice. Get it here now!

DOWNLOAD: The RAD app for Android

DOWNLOAD: The RAD app for iOS

RAD is community led and your comments help keep it up to date so don’t be afraid to add any relevant information after a crag visit which might be useful for other visitors – anything from conditions on the crag, favourite routes or reports of rockfall/other recent changes to the crag are all useful for other climbers visiting.

« Back

TAGS

sandstone

anchors

Click on the tags to explore more

Southern Sandstone Access: what's changed with the end of lockdown 2?

02/12/2020

With England’s second lockdown ending this morning (2nd December) and a return to a tier system with climbing walls able to re-open, our request to temporarily avoid all southern sandstone crags is changing…
Read more »

Temporary restriction of climbing at Eridge Rocks

16/07/2020

The huge increase in climbers at Eridge Rocks since lockdown lifted has resulted in rapid wear to the fragile sandstone the makes up the crag. Unfortunately, this has now reached a tipping point where a temporary restriction is needed to give the crag a chance to recover before irreparable damage is caused. Read on to find out more about why this restriction is needed…
Read more »

Harrison’s Rock: Isolated Buttress update

21/05/2018

Following the removal of the loose boulder, previously used to step across from the mainland to the Isolated Buttress at Harrison’s Rocks, climbers, the Harrisons Rocks Management Group (HRMG) and BMC have been deliberating about the best course of action for future access to the pinnacle.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards

3000 characters remaining

Submit

Would you like to login to post your comment?

Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it

Comments are currently on | Turn off comments

Anonymous User

24/09/2021

Is there any information on the reasoning / testing that was done?

Like this comment (0)

Anonymous User

26/09/2021

I see the new bolt changes on the Sandstone as more dangerous than before. Not everyone will get, understand or know about the new system and like in times gone by may just use one of the bolts or put a screw gate and sling to another screw gate between to two bolts or even a quick draw. The knotted equalised sling will be liable to significant wear on the knot and will also be so tight to undo that it may just be used for all the bolts and not be equalised at all. I really do feel this is a retrograde step and that there is potential for more to go wrong. There is a lot of talk on the two Sandstone Group chats that I am on about these issues

Like this comment (5)

Anonymous User

27/09/2021

Those knots on the equalised slings will wear very quickly with rubbing on the rock. Dangerous as shown.
Rope protectors over them will help though the sandstone rock also likley to be subject to serious abrasion.

Like this comment (2)

Anonymous User

01/10/2021

I think that the suggested method of equalising bolt anchors is problematic because it involves knotting slings which, in addition to creating knots which are hard to undo, tends to create abrasion / wear points on the knots. Might it not be better to use specific lengths of (longer) static rope which can be tied directly into the bolts and then equalised with an overhand or figure of eight knot at a point which is over the crag edge. Additionally, putting the ropes into tubing at the point where they go over the crag edge would also be good practice.

Like this comment (1)

Anonymous User

01/10/2021

If the cable in between was unsafe then this new scenario is fine. As long as you use a static sling and the climbing rope hangs over the edge, then there’s no problem with the new system. If a person doesn’t know how to set up / equalise or back-up their set up then maybe they shouldn’t be climbing outside yet and they should go and learn. Outdoor safety skills are needed everywhere. It’s not an indoor climbing wall after all.

Like this comment (3)