After a long winter preparation period, the GB Junior Bouldering Team launched its 2014 IFSC European Youth Cup campaign in the beautiful mountain town of L'Argentière-la-Bessée in France over the weekend of 22-23 July . Tom Greenall, Junior Bouldering Team manager reports.
Following a fantastic first season in 2013, the team flew via Lyon to arrive south of Briancon for the first stage of their two-round cup competition. Set in the heart of this small alpine town, the EYC forms part of the Tout a Bloc festival, which attracts climbers from all over the world. Against the stunning backdrop of the Alps, the outdoor competition arena transforms the town centre into a real talent epicentre for competition climbing with all the big countries such as Austria, Germany and Slovenia in attendance.
Since 2013 the GB Junior Bouldering Team has steadily increased its squad size, resulting in a robust team of both highly experienced athletes as well as some new members. For this competition the team consisted of Alexia Basch (Youth B), Tara Hayes, Molly Thompson-Smith, Sidonie Graham, Pete Dawson, Ed Mabon, Alex Waterhouse, William Bosi (Youth A) as well as Joe Swales, Max Ayrton, Hamish Potokar and Team Captain Rachel Carr (Junior).
Unlike other European Youth Cups, here the route setters had elected to keep the wall clean with fewer problems but a lot more shared blocs. From the outset it was obvious that this would be a difficult competition with Youth B sharing boulders all the way up to the Junior category.
The first athlete to wave the GB flag was London’s Alexia Basch. It is amazing to think that Alexia has only ever competed in one previous international boulder competition as she handles herself with a huge amount of poise. Confidently attacking the boulders, and looking strong, she managed an incredible 4 flashes and 7 bonuses to secure a superb top 20 finish in a difficult field.
The second category to field GB representation was that of the Youth A Females. Stepping out from isolation Tara Hayes, Sidonie Graham and Molly Thompson-Smith were already facing difficult conditions as the sun beat down on the arena. For those unfamiliar with EYC bouldering competitions, qualification revolves around an 8-bloc scramble with a maximum of 5 attempts per boulder. This involves a huge amount of tactical skill as you assess the wait time, attempts order as well as the boulders themselves. With the temperature rising, the tempo of the round was upbeat but conservative as athletes tried to preserve as much energy as possible in the baking sun.
Sidonie Graham, competing in her first year in the Youth A Female category, came away with some impressive quick ticks including a great second attempt top on some tricky and greasy volumes on the unique stand-alone boulder, as well as a flash of another bloc. We are confident that Sid will go from strength to strength this year in what is a very tough and competitive category.
Meanwhile Tara and Molly were using all of their competition experience to great effect, making swift work on some of the other blocs, topping 5 blocs each to secure 10th and 13th places retrospectively.
At the same time Team Captain Rachel Carr began her first year Junior category campaign against some of the biggest names in female bouldering such as Austria’s Jessica Pilz and Belgium’s Chloe Caulier. Starting confidently, Rach muscled her way through an impressive overhanging bloc on volumes and green holds looking strong alongside fierce competition. Adding another bloc quickly the heat started to tell as the intensity of the pack slowed under the blistering temps. A great start for Rach with a top 20 finish in 18th, which will stand her in good stead going into the second round in Laengenfeld in Austria in a month’s time.
The largest entered category in the competition soon followed with the Youth A Males. Strong British representation came in the way of three of our cross-disciplined athletes with Scotland’s William Bosi and the Devonshire trio of Alex Waterhouse, Ed Mabon (boulder team) and Pete Dawson.
With over 40 athletes competing the set was incredibly difficult with the route setters looking to exploit every weakness. The blocs were largely shared with the Junior Males resulting in some incredibly long moves and powerful climbing. Unlike some other EYC venues. L'Argentière is noticeably steep creating very physically demanding climbing.
Out of the gate quickly the boys dispatched some of the more accessible boulders before getting stuck into the more difficult ones. Gymnastic and powerful body climbing unlike most of what we see in the UK saw the boys pushed hard but they came away pleased with making quick flashes and their tactical approach.
With the sun finally dropping beneath the mountain range of the French Alps, slightly cooler temperatures were welcomed by Hamish Potokar, a former finalist here in L'Argentière in 2013 and newcomers Max Ayrton and Joe Swales.
Despite this being their first experience of European competition, Max and Joe set a confident yet relaxed pace, as they coolly stood against some of the strongest athletes on the circuit. It was a joy to see the boys relish their first taste as they progressed swiftly into great positions in 12th and 15th place; stunning and memorable debuts.
Meanwhile, Bristol’s Hamish Potokar was making strong progress alongside his counterparts. Hamish was unlucky not to medal here last year and his form looked that of an athlete eager to make amends. After some breathtaking climbing Hamish came away with a close but well deserved 6th place and with it, a place in the following day's final.
After a great evening at our base gite, the GB team returned the following day ready to bring the house down for Mr Potokar. In another EYC event earlier this year in Laval, the team had earned a reputation for being one of the loudest supporting teams in the competition and this proved true once again.
Hamish was feeling relaxed in 6th place meaning that he would go out first in all the boulders with very little pressure. The finals for an EYC are run in a 4 minutes plus time World Cup style format. Hamish made his entrance to the rapturous applause of the crowd and the cheers of the GB team.
The blocs looked hard but Hamish is an incredible athlete with an ability to conjure sequences where they don’t seem possible. After climbing the first boulder on his second attempt, Hamish had already advanced a place and was looking strong in 5th place with a top.
The second boulder, a powerful overhanging volume problem saw off attempts from all athletes except Germany’s David Finnenburg, Israel’s Alex Khazenov and Italy’s Matteo Mosconi. Still with a bonus in his pocket and with Germany’s Hans Moritz only managing a bonus on his 4th attempt, Hamish climbed yet another place into 4th place.
As a thrilling contest developed a podium spot came down to the final boulder. A dynamic roll-over and dyno was followed by a powerful shoulder up to a sloping top. It was all to play for here and the crowd was ecstatic as Hamish secured the final fold with a textbook match on his 4th attempt.
Rewarded with a kiss from the brusher girl, Hamish was clearly popular with the French crowd and after emerging from the isolation nervously waited with the rest of the GB team to see how events would unfold. As each athlete attempted the boulder tension grew and when Hans Moritz failed to top on his 4th attempt we knew that 3rd place belonged to Hamish.
A perfect end to a thrilling few days, Hamish stood proudly on the podium in the same spot where Nathan Phillips had the previous year as he received his first of what I am sure will be many medals in the Junior category.
An excellent start to the 2014 European season for the GB team celebrated with a BBQ at the gite and a surprise visit from Climbers against Cancer's Mr John Ellison too.
GB Junior Bouldering Team member results:
Youth A Female
10th Tara Hayes
13th Molly Thompson-Smith
29th Sidonie Graham
Youth B Female
17th Alexia Basch
Junior Female
18th Rachel Carr
Youth A Male
21st William Bosi
31st Edward Mabon
32nd Peter Dawson
38th Alex Waterhouse
Junior Male
3rd Hamish Pokotar
12th Joe Swales
15th Max Ayrton
The next round of the IFSC European Youth Cup (Bouldering) takes place on 15-16 August in Austria.
Some words from the team:
“It was a great first trip for me away with the GB Junior Bouldering Team. The guys are so psyched to support each other and I can't thank them enough for the warm welcome that I have received” Max Ayrton (Junior Male & Chief BBQ Chef)
“This is the only trip that I have ever been on where I have completed a posh test, played hide and seek and competed in international competition” Ed Mabon (Youth A Male)
“It was great to see everyone competing with such confidence and maturity after such a short period of time. It seems as if we have been a team for years already and I am confident that we will only go from strength to strength this year” Rachel Carr (Team Captain and Junior Female)
“It seemed strange to not be out there competing myself this year but it was amazing to be able to properly watch the team performing their best in my new role coaching. A great start to the season and I am sure they will all continue to up their game with future competitions” Nathan Phillips (Athlete Liaison and Coach)
“It was so nice to have the support of the other team members whilst climbing. Out on the mats I feel like they know me well and help me push my own performance. I don’t even need WIFI when I am with the team…………….which is something special for me!” Molly Thompson-Smith (Youth A Female)
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