Mountaineers Roger McMorrow and Jeremy Windsor, scientists at the University College of London's Centre for Altitude, Space and Extreme Environment Medicine (CASE), have resurrected long-forgotten Everest research to develop a potentially breakthrough medical breathing device.

In 1953, Tom Bourdillon, a rocket research physicist and one of the finest British alpinists of his generation, was instrumental in developing a closed-circuit oxygen apparatus, which he believed would be more effective than previously used open-circuit devices due to increased efficiency from the recycling of exhaled oxygen. However, Bourdillon's system was experimental and it was anticipated that for the Everest attempt much greater reliance would be placed on an improved version (by 1938 Everester, Peter Lloyd) of the traditional open-circuit device.

On the first summit attempt Bourdillon and Charles Evans used the closed-circuit apparatus but, unfortunately, Evans's device developed problems, making it difficult for him to keep up the pace. At the South Summit, the highest point yet reached by man, they realized that if they continued the remaining 90m of ascent to the highest point, they were certain to run out of oxygen on the descent. The successful ascent a few days later used open-circuit technology and thereafter Bourdillon's development was all but forgotten in mountaineering.

In 2005 Dr McMorrow tested a closed-circuit prototype on Cho Oyu but it failed, possibly for the same reason as the 1953 apparatus. However, he found that a recently invented carbon dioxide absorber solved the problem. McMorrow has a fellowship at London from Smiths Medical and both he and the company quickly realized that the prototype could be developed into a ground-breaking device for patients suffering from Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease (COPD), which includes common conditions such as Chronic Bronchitis and Emphysema. The significance of this announcement should not be taken lightly: the World Health Organization predicts that by 2030 COPD will be the third leading cause of death worldwide.

Exercise is crucial for COPD patients but the size of open-circuit systems means that it is seldom possible. After more successful tests during the 2007 Caudwell Xtreme Everest expedition, Smiths Medical is now optimizing and miniaturizing the apparatus for patients.

Former BMC president and 1953 Everest team member, George Band, remembers 'how passionate Tom was about his closed-circuit device and how disappointed he and Charles were not to make it to the summit. I'm sure Tom would have been really thrilled that his research on the closed-circuit oxygen equipment did not go to waste and could help people suffering with respiratory problems today'.

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