The British Mountaineering Council

Wild Country Technical Friend 3 - Broken in Fall

A Wild Country Technical Friend failed in a fall. It is concluded that this was due to the device being twisted because of the choice of placement.

Category: Mechanical adjustable chocks
Result: Reports: No Fault

Year: 2011
BMC ID: TCM09/02

Cracked BD Halfdome Helmet

A Black Diamond helmet was received exhibiting a crack on the back rim. This was reported to have been found when removing the helmet from a rucksack prior to a climb. No injuries were sustained as a result of this breakage. Following inspection of various areas of damage on the helmet, it is believed a significant crushing force was exerted across the sides of the helmet, causing bending of the back rim and the subsequent cracking observed.

Category: Helmet
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2011
BMC ID: TCM10/03

DMM Ascent helmet, head injury

A young climber slipped and banged his head whilst being lowered from a climb, resulting in a head injury. Their parent was concerned that this may have been caused due to the design of the interior of the helmet, which has exposed plastic rivets. There was no evidence that the exposed rivets would damage the head for a correctly fitting helmet under moderate impact. There was evidence that the rear retention system could cause injury during an impact. The manufacturer has indicated that improvements to the helmet design are being made as a result of this investigation, as part of their Quality Management system.

Category: Helmet
Result: Reports: No Fault

Year: 2011
BMC ID: TCM10/04

Head Injury Survey Report

A BMC online questionaire surveyed climber's who had suffered head injury or impact to the head whilst climbing. This report analyses the results and reports on the conclusions.

Category: Other
Result: Notes: All

Year: 2011
BMC ID: TCN 09/02

Head Injury Survey Report

A BMC online questionaire surveyed climber's who had suffered head injury or impact to the head whilst climbing. This report analyses the results and reports on the conclusions.

Category: Other
Result: Notes: All

Year: 2011
BMC ID: TCN 09/02

Beal rope, snapped (acid contamination)

A Beal rope broke whilst a climber was being lowered at an indoor wall. Fortunately no injuries were sustained as a result. Testing found that the rope was contaminated by a strong acid.

Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2009
BMC ID: TCM 09/01

Beal rope, snapped (acid contamination)

A Beal rope broke whilst a climber was being lowered at an indoor wall. Fortunately no injuries were sustained as a result. Testing found that the rope was contaminated by a strong acid.

Category: Rope
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2009
BMC ID: TCM 09/01

Broken DMM Prowire Karabiner

The karabiner failed following a fall of approximately 5 feet (1.6 m) whilst the climber was leading a route at Harborough Rocks. Examination of the karabiner and comparison to previous incidents suggest that the karabiner failed due to the wire of the protection chock becoming caught in the nose of the karabiner holding the gate open and loading the karabiner close to the nose. The force required for the karabiner to fail in this incidence is less than that likely to be generated in the fall described. It is not known how the wire became caught in the nose of the karabiner.

Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2009
BMC ID: TCM08/03

Broken DMM Prowire Karabiner

The karabiner failed following a fall of approximately 5 feet (1.6 m) whilst the climber was leading a route at Harborough Rocks. Examination of the karabiner and comparison to previous incidents suggest that the karabiner failed due to the wire of the protection chock becoming caught in the nose of the karabiner holding the gate open and loading the karabiner close to the nose. The force required for the karabiner to fail in this incidence is less than that likely to be generated in the fall described. It is not known how the wire became caught in the nose of the karabiner.

Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2009
BMC ID: TCM08/03

Petzl Am'D Karabiner, broken gate spring

This Am’D Ball Lock karabiner gate locking mechanism failed while in use with a Tandem pulley on a zip line. It is suggested that the cause was loading the karabiner away from its spine which resulted in the gate spring being relaxed sufficiently to allow the pusher to slip off its step

Category: Karabiner
Result: Reports: Wear/Misuse

Year: 2009
BMC ID: TCM0801